Watermelon ain’t what it used to be. Anyone of certain generations can tell you that. And this isn’t just another “I walked eight miles in the snow” yarn. It’s a fact. Long story short: commercial growers bred out the big black seeds to make the fruit easier to eat and lost some of its sweetness and soul in the process. There are small farmers and home growers out there trying to revive heirloom watermelons and bring back the complex juiciness of the good ol’ fruit. Until I can easily get my hands on one, I do the best I can with what the supermarket’s got.
To bring out the sugars in the red flesh — and mimic the layers of flavors I remember from childhood — I sprinkle wedges with this lime and mint salt. A bit of salt actually makes the fruit sweeter, the lime adds floral tartness, and mint makes it extra refreshing. You can double or triple the mix if you’re cutting up a few melons for a party.
We produce reported pieces, profiles, interviews, and rants about what’s broken in the food world (there’s a lot) and how to change things for the better. People sometimes tell me to just keep politics out of it. Respectfully: No. Food is political. We can’t and won’t ignore that.