Cooking by Instinct

When going with your gut turns out great.

Published June 8, 2022

Photos: Mark Bittman

You know when there’s a tricky moment in traffic when you have to trust your instincts — and that works — because you actually know what you’re doing? I suppose if you’re good at tennis, it’s similar. Here comes a tough shot: Instead of thinking, you just return it well — maybe even aggressively. 

That was this situation. I had a kitchen in need of being put back together at Kathleen’s family’s house in Bermuda. (Not only had no one been here for a while, but a variety of work had been done, resulting in semi-turmoil, especially in the kitchen.) I had some gorgeous, fresh-caught tuna, and a few local vegetables from Tommy Wadson’s farm, including some lacinato kale. There was some rice, some seasonings, and some sesame seeds, and not much else. (I don’t need to list what there wasn’t, but it was a lot.)


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