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Potato Hash with Gravlax and Creamy Horseradish

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Makes 4-6 servings 1x

Time at least 24 hours, largely unattended

Units Scale

Ingredients

  • One 1– to 1 1/2-pound salmon fillet
  • 1/2 cup salt, plus more for seasoning
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 bunch fresh dill, chopped (including the stems is fine)
  • 1 cup crème fraîche
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs (like dill, parsley, chives, tarragon, and fennel fronds)
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or as needed
  • 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish, or to taste
  • Pepper
  • 2 pounds starchy potatoes (like Idaho or other russets), scrubbed
  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

Instructions

  1. Put the salmon, skin side down, on a large piece of plastic wrap. Run your hand against the grain of the flesh, and if you feel any pin bones, remove them with pliers or tweezers (or ask your fishmonger to do this).
  2. Mix the salt, sugar, and dill. Pack the salt mixture onto the flesh, making sure it’s completely covered, and putting a thicker layer on the thickest part of the fish. Wrap the fish tightly, put it on a rimmed baking sheet or plate, and refrigerate until the flesh is darkened and firm, some liquid has leeched out, and a sharp paring knife inserted into the thickest part of the fish meets some resistance, 24 to 36 hours.
  3. Unwrap the salmon and rinse off the salt mixture. Pat dry with paper towels and refrigerate in an airtight container; don’t slice until you’re ready to serve. (You can make it a day or so in advance.)
  4. Mix the crème fraîche, cream, herbs, lemon juice, and horseradish; season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more horseradish if you like, but keep in mind the flavor will intensify as it sits. (You can cover and refrigerate the crème fraîche mixture for up to 12 hours.)
  5. Cut the potatoes into 1-inch cubes. Put the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and when it melts, add the potatoes and 1/4 cup water. (It’s okay if the pan is crowded.) Sprinkle with lots of salt, stir, cover, and cook undisturbed until the potatoes are just barely tender, 5 to 10 minutes. (Unlikely, but you may need to add a little more water, cover, and cook for another minute or 2.)
  6. Uncover the pan, raise the heat to high, and cook undisturbed until the water has evaporated, the butter has started to brown, and the potatoes release easily from the pan, 20 to 25 minutes. (If they don’t release easily from the pan, they aren’t ready to be turned yet.) At this point, stir the potatoes and cook until browned on a second side, another 10 to 15 minutes.
  7. Switch to a potato masher and a spatula, smashing and turning the potatoes once in a while without overworking them. Continue cooking until the potatoes clump up and brown in some spots, like fried mashed potatoes, 5 to 10 minutes; adjust the heat so the potatoes sizzle but don’t burn. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
  8. Holding the knife at a 45° angle, thinly slice as much of the gravlax as you like, leaving the skin behind. It’s better to get smaller slices or ones with holes than to get a slice that’s too thick. Remove the potatoes from the heat and fold in the gravlax. Serve drizzled with some of the sauce and pass the rest at the table.

— Dinner for Everyone