Colonialism, a Humble Spice, and Our Dwindling Respect for Nature

Amitav Ghosh uses nutmeg as a parable for our environmental crisis.

Published September 14, 2022

Photo courtesy Amitav Ghosh

We have an unusual, special, and super interesting guest on today’s episode of Food with Mark Bittman. Melissa and I were joined by writer Amitav Ghosh, who is best known for his complex and wonderful fiction. In the last two years, he’s generated two intriguing and original nonfiction works; his latest, The Nutmeg’s Curse: Parables for a Planet in Crisis, is especially deserving of our attention, because it focuses on food, colonialism, and the climate crisis. It’s an extremely powerful book.

Our interview is dominated by Amitav’s enviable depth of knowledge on just about every topic we brought up. So: here we go!

Please listen, subscribe, and review. The recipe featured in today’s episode — Nutmeg-Scented Pound Cake — plus an another nutmeg-friendly gem, below. And may I recommend getting your nutmeg (and other spices) from our friends at Burlap & Barrel? Their spices are wonderfully sourced and can’t be beat.

Thank you, as always. — Mark

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Romulo Yanes

Nutmeg-Scented Pound Cake

Classic pound cake gets its name from four basic ingredients: a pound each butter, flour, sugar, and eggs. Here the formula is roughly cut in half to make one standard-size loaf, with a couple of my spins — most notably an unexpected and generous boost of nutmeg — to increase flavor. I also suggest using cake flour for extra tenderness; if you don’t have it, the results with all-purpose will still be quite good.


Creamed Onions

A decadent and sort of old-fashioned dish that doesn’t make it to the table often enough. Other vegetables you can use: pearl or cippolini onions, whole shallots, garlic cloves (you’ll need lots, or cut the recipe in half).


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