Here’s How to Cook an Auspicious (Sorta Polarizing) Grain

We're talking about buckwheat — which also happens to be one of Mark's favorites.

Published December 30, 2024

​Kasha Lasagna Rolls with Browned Onions and Pecorino Butter​. All photos: Kerri Conan

As the years have gone by, I’ve come to appreciate Bob’s Red Mill more and more for many reasons, but especially these two: One, they’re getting what were once difficult-to-find whole grains, legumes, and other ingredients (unsweetened coconut, for example), into mainstream American markets. The other has been their willingness to respond to trends in food and to create or find new and innovative products, like well-performing gluten-free flour, or fava and chickpea flours.

Because we’re committed to transparency, we wanted to let you know that we’re getting compensated to promote Bob’s. We try to be thoughtful about how we make money, and so we only partner with brands and organizations that we know well and believe in. Bob’s is one of those, and we’re glad to have reasons to promote them. — mb


Here on the cusp between December’s holiday indulgences and the resolutions of January, we’re celebrating buckwheat — one of the global foods eaten for good luck. Not that we’re superstitious. Let’s just call it a good excuse to highlight an unsung whole grain with recipes that are festive enough for New Year meals, yet practical to cook anytime.

Buckwheat is a grass-like pseudograin – akin to quinoa and amaranth – which makes it a fine gluten-free substitute for steel cut oats, millet, brown rice, or cracked wheat. Ground into flour for noodles (like the first recipe below) or pancakes (like blini), the flavor is mocha-meets-mushrooms, with a depth that can stand up to hearty stews or bold sauces. For the second recipe in this bundle, we combine pyramid-shaped buckwheat groats with a couple other good-luck ingredients for a full-meal soup; the trick technique is adding half of the buckwheat early (for body) and half toward the end (for chew). And last but not least, there’s a lasagna spin on kasha varnishkes (toasted buckwheat groats and browned onions tossed with bowties) for a little starch-on-starch comfort.

Let it be said just once that buckwheat’s taste and texture are unique in the land of fiber and kernels. And okay, they aren’t always the prettiest whole grain on the plate. But these recipes offer a chance to enjoy what we love most about their flour and groats: versatile, quick-cooking goodness. That’s what we call lucky.

The Bob’s Red Mill products we feature on The Bittman Project are usually available in everyday supermarkets and natural food stores. In case you can’t find something, we recommend purchasing online at Bob’s Red Mill store on Amazon or Vitacost.


Scissor-Cut Buckwheat Noodles with Miso Butter

Soba, the thin Japanese noodles made from all or part buckwheat, is associated with good luck at the New Year, though they’re also a big part of the everyday diet. Sometimes they’re served cold with dipping sauce, or they’re stir-fried with vegetables and meat – and called yakisoba – or they’re slipped into soup. Like Italian pasta, they’re always available dried and sometimes fresh, and the ambitious can make them at home. Enter this delightful and easy whole grain buckwheat noodle recipe, where you cut (or pinch) off bits of dough into a pot of bubbling water, akin to dumplings. The miso butter included is amazing, but you could also skip it and serve these plain with any meat, seafood, or vegetable stew.


Triple-Luck New Years Soup

Three allegedly lucky foods – buckwheat, cabbage, and black-eyed peas – all come together in one pot with a little something smoky – like pork, turkey, or seaweed (see the variation!) – for a robust and flavorful water-based soup with lots of different textures in every bite. Another lucky break: It freezes and reheats really well, so you can tap into the good vibes all year long.


Kasha Lasagna Rolls with Browned Onions and Pecorino Butter

Here is one of Mark’s favorite dishes – toasted buckwheat with caramelized onions and bow ties – but spun a bit fancy for conjuring good luck in the New Year, or any time of the year. This version is almost as easy as his classic Kasha Varnishkes. The make-ahead noodle rolls bake up tender, chewy, and crisp, often all in the same bite. To steer the recipe more toward lasagna, serve them with Mark’s fastest tomato sauce to pass at the table. And for an even easier version, break the noodles before boiling and simply toss them with the buckwheat filling before topping and baking.


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