Erika Houle

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Cooking For One: Dukkah-Crusted Feta & Fennel

A combination of crunchy-nutty cheese and bright salad make dinner for just you exciting.

Dukkah-Crusted Feta with Fennel Salad and Tahini Vinaigrette

With fennel, citrus, and fresh dill or mint alongside feta that’s simultaneously creamy and crunchy, this is the kind of salad that’s ideal for a midday lunch to keep you going, or a post-work dinner on the patio where you can unwind with flavors that soothe. Each component—dukkah, crusted feta, and vinaigrette—can be made ahead, and you won’t be hard pressed to find other purposes for all of them throughout the rest of the week.

Let’s Go, Pic-Knicks!

Plantain chips with your new favorite dip, an herby rice salad, and, of course, a tasty sandwich — whether you’re headed to the beach, the park, or just a picturesque patch of grass, look toward these recipes for this season’s best picnic spreads.

Picnic-Ready Chicken Sandwiches with Garlic Labneh and Pickled Vegetables

While mayonnaise might be the most popular condiment for classic picnic sandwiches, labneh has a thicker (and less melty) consistency and adds ideal amounts of brightness and creaminess. (That said, if you can’t get your hands on labneh, mayonnaise will be delicious, too, and it will serve a similar purpose). Blackened chicken thighs, once rested, will remain juicy and delicious, and layers of carrots and radish quickly bathed in banana pepper pickling liquid will pack the punch every picnic needs.

Picnic-Ready Rice Salad with Mushrooms, Peas, and Herbs

While rice might not be the first thing that comes to mind when picnics are mentioned, when herbs, mushrooms, and peas are added to the equation, it rounds out an outdoor meal with fresh flavors and zero sogginess. Feel free to swap dill, mint, or chives with any tender herbs, but this combination compliments everything really well. Keep leftovers chilled and serve them for quick and convenient meals back at home.

Picnic-Ready Plantain Chips with Black Bean Dip

We all know there’s no picnic without chips and dip, and when you make plantain and black bean varieties, you can expect expectations to be exceeded. Plantain chips will hold their crunch (be sure they’re well-cooked, drained, and entirely cooled before packing them up), and creamy black bean dip (add chipotle peppers if you’re picnicking with friends who appreciate a kick) will be an exciting alternative to store-bought hummus or salsa. There’s also room to play around with your plantain seasonings—if making your own spice mix sounds tedious and you’ve got suya spice or your personal favorite salt blend on hand, you’ll be all set.

Neglecting Scraps? Not You!

If you still have on-the-verge broccoli bits and stems in your fridge, that’s great. Don’t forget about any stale bread, either—combined with a few other things, a balanced and delightfully textured soup could be in your future. Old potatoes are great for frying and serving with a bright, springy smoked fish dip. And quickly-“candied” carrot scraps should be the crowning jewel on your sundae.

Carrot Scraps Sundaes

Of course nothing compares to carrot cake. But, when you’re in search of a speedy sweet treat, these sundaes come pretty close, and if you’re already making carrots for dinner, they’ll be ready to go in no time. When it comes to carrot scraps, as long as they’re washed well, you can use peels, grated ends, or quickly chopped up bits and pieces that didn’t make your dinner spread. Don’t skip out on the flaky salt—similar to cream cheese frosting, it adds the right amount of savoriness for balance. Feel free to add your favorite sundae toppings or carrot cake mix-ins, like extra syrup, shredded coconut, and/or toasted walnuts.

Twice-Fried Potato Scraps with Smoked Fish Dip

Depending on personal preferences or methods you might be following to prepare potatoes, use either potato skins or more substantial edges. The skins will give you more delicate crisps (think classic potato chips), and the edges will act as heartier vessels for dipping and spreading (you can store the remaining potato flesh in cold water in the fridge for up to 24 hours). When there’s already a pot filled with hot frying oil, I like making and serving both—in this case, for those less interested in smoked fish, the fried potato skins are a great snack on their own, and they’ll stay crispy for a long time. The edges, on the other hand, are best served warm, so if you’re also making skins, make the edges second. While a lot of whitefish dips rely on cream cheese as a main ingredient, this one calls for creme fraiche and sour cream in order to remain on the lighter, more scoopable side. Feel free to substitute parsley with fresh dill or tarragon, or to add extra seasonings to your potatoes as you see fit.

Broccoli Scrap and Pea Soup with White Cheddar Croutons

A fellow soup-loving friend and I once discussed our favorites, and I joked that mine was “broccoli cheddar.” Now, I really mean it. This bright green soup is also one of the most efficient ways to clear out aging ingredients. Leftover stalks make for a nutty, slightly caramelized, and creamy base. And those little bits and crumbs of broccoli florets that often get left behind? Toss them in oil and salt and roast them until they’re charred for a garnish that adds texture and amplifies the flavors of the soup. If you’ve got in-season peas, wonderful, but if not, thaw frozen ones you might have forgotten about. You’ll be glad you have some stale bread on hand, too—once tossed with olive oil and salt and covered with shredded sharp white cheddar under the broiler, you’ll have everything you need for a delicious and warming meal.

Unexpected Spring Eating

Around this time of year, while some might get swept up in an endless search for ramps, these recipes are less fleeting. If your peas are still frozen, your herbs are still dried, or your artichokes are still peacefully nestled in a can in your pantry, you can still put together these dishes that match the mood of the new season of growth.

Creamed Mushrooms and Spinach with Fried Artichokes

This feels like one of the smoothest transitions from winter to spring—hearty, warming, fresh, and full of greens and pleasing textures. Serve this as a side dish with something like pasta al limone, or alongside good bread and butter and a simple salad for a satisfying lunch. Use boatloads of black pepper. Snack on some of the fried artichokes—for quality control, of course—as you go.

Radish and Avocado Salad with Lime, Charnushka, and Dill

This recipe pairs perfectly with things like grilled skewers or warm pita bread with hummus. In fact, you could stuff leftover salad into a pita and add feta or your favorite protein and have a very delicious future lunch, too. A variety of thinly sliced radishes are not only wonderfully peppery but very fun to plate—be playful and create whatever shapes your heart desires. When making guacamole, my ratio of limes (for juice) to avocados has always been 1:1, which remains the same here: It’s early spring, and we need brightness. Use good quality extra virgin olive oil for balance, and don’t be shy when seasoning with salt—avocados can handle a lot of it. Note: Charnushka (onion seed) and fragrant baby dill fronds bring a lot of depth to the dish, don’t skip ‘em!

Curry-Buttered English Peas with Lemon, Mint, and Shallots

Shucking peas is a delightful Sunday morning activity, but when it makes more sense to use frozen ones, they’ll work well, too. This recipe will leave you with extra curry butter, which can be made ahead of time—use it for roasting chicken and vegetables, and when broiling fish or potatoes or making pan sauces. When garnishing, go heavy on the lemon zest and mint. Note: If you’re using frozen peas, they don’t need to be blanched, only heated through before serving. You can run them under cold water and dry them before adding them to a frying pan with the diced shallots and curry butter.

“Angeled” Eggs Are the Way to Go

Instead of labor-intensive deviled eggs, leave your eggs as they are, season them with salt, and add a dollop of something creamy like kewpie, crème fraîche, or homemade mayonnaise. From there, design a decadent bite with whatever ingredients you have on hand, from anchovies to cheese and crushed potato chips.

“Deviled” Jammy Eggs with Bacon, Cornichons, Crushed Potato Chips, and Chives

Seven-minute jammy eggs topped with bacon, cornichons, and crushed potato chips come together a lot faster than a potato salad and they don’t disappoint. I suggest using thick cut bacon and a simple flavor of potato chips. I’ve thought about how jalapeno kettle cooked chips could take things up a notch, and sour cream and onion would be excellent, too, but salt and pepper varieties are great and they’re probably more appealing to a wider range of guests—listen to your heart and whoever you’re feeding. Any of your favorite chopped pickles will work well, but I strongly suggest using Maille cornichons (gherkins), because I’ve come by too many too-sweet cornichons before, and these are not that. These eggs might have a game day vibe, but they’re lovely to serve for breakfasts, picnics, dinner parties, and more.

“Deviled” Jammy Eggs with Ham, Gruyere, and Hot “Dijonnaisse”

If you’re a fan of classic jambon-fromage sandwiches, these eggs are for you. They’re also reminiscent of croque monsieurs and madames, with cheesy toasted panko that adds a great crunch. What’s less French is Colman’s Hot English Mustard, which I prefer to use for this recipe (I love it for its kick), but your favorite Dijon would be a great alternative. You can also use smoked gruyere or crisp up your ham if you prefer deeper flavors, and if sprinkling each egg with a little piment d’espellete is of interest, feel free. There’s a lot of room for playing around with plating, too—have fun with it.

“Deviled” Jammy Eggs with Anchovies, Pickled Peppers, and Parsley

This recipe calls for a quick-to-assemble garlic mayo with lemon zest, and it’s delicious. I’ve also made these eggs with a dollop of creme fraiche as an alternative, and they were incredible, too. It’s important to taste whatever anchovies you’re using before plating these up to get a sense of saltiness—depending on the brand and how they’ve been preserved, some anchovies can be significantly saltier than others, and you might want to adjust your add-ons accordingly (note that white anchovies in vinegar are also a great option here). Parsley will add freshness, and a hint of heat and brightness from hot pickled peppers will bring balance and the right amount of punch to each bite.

Fusilli with Kale and Herb Purée

Here’s a bowl of greens that even those who don’t enjoy them can get behind. Loaded with kale, herbs, and garlic, and made bright and extra savory with lemon and anchovies, this purée makes a perfect pasta sauce. Plus, it’s pretty beautiful, and when tossed with one of the most fun pasta shapes and topped with cheese and freshly cracked black pepper, anyone would be hard pressed to disagree with the goodness of eating their greens.

Rigatoni with Cauliflower and Leek Purée

Cauliflower might be my favorite vegetable ever, and I don’t make that claim lightly. Here, puréed with leeks and garlic, stirred into hot rigatoni, and topped with some crunch, red pepper flakes, and cheese, it takes on one of its finest forms. It also won’t make your stomach feel crazy in the way some creamy pastas do, but it will be delicious, rich, and comforting. Make it all winter long, and serve reheated purée leftovers as a bed for charred and roasted slabs of—you guessed it—cauliflower.