
When all that’s left on the day’s to-do list is supper, I’m not putting my shoes back on.
When I’m cooking dinner for myself, not much matters more than simplicity. And I don’t mean the kind of “simplicity” that food media so often lies about. I mean actual simplicity. Borderline brainlessness. Minimal prep, as few dishes as possible, and definitely no running out to the store for a handful of chives. When all that’s left on the day’s to-do list is supper, I’m not putting my shoes back on. I just want to play Stevie Wonder records, putter around on autopilot, and, without any agita, produce a delicious supper.
I submit that a fillet of fish is the best possible centerpiece for this kind of dinner-alone night. Fish tends to cook quickly, and it’s almost always better when you do almost nothing to it. A bright wedge of salmon, a chunky hunk of cod, a sexy slab of halibut—all of these are at their best, in my opinion, when they haven’t been overly in the kitchen. A little heat, a little time, a little seasoning—that’s all they need to shine.
No stovetop cooking tonight. Tonight, take a gentler, more forgiving, virtually hands-off approach and cook your fish in a low oven for, oh, twenty minutes or so while you attend to more important things.
Sure, you can pan-sear any of these, and maybe sometimes you do. But when you apply high heat to delicate fish, you have to watch it like a meerkat watching for warthogs. Take your eye off that lovely fillet for a minute too long and you’re left with a dry, unevenly cooked disappointment. (Not to mention that searing fish over high heat, in my little kitchen at least, means the entire apartment smells like leftovers for the next couple of days.)
So, no stovetop cooking tonight. Tonight, take a gentler, more forgiving, virtually hands-off approach and cook your fish in a low oven for, oh, twenty minutes or so while you attend to more important things. Like deciding what you’ll drink with it, or remembering the words to “Sir Duke.”
The hardest part comes first: Remembering to move the fish from the freezer to the fridge a few hours ahead of time so that it’s ready when you are. Next, heat the oven to 325°F. Now, take that fillet (it doesn’t really matter how big it is—a third of a pound, a half-pound, whatever you’ve got) and plop it into a glass or ceramic baking dish, or an oven-safe skillet lined with parchment to prevent sticking. Sprinkle it with salt, flip it over, and sprinkle it again. Walk away for four or five minutes (“I Wish” lasts 4:35).
Glug a good measure of olive oil over the fish—a little bit more than you might think you need. A couple of tablespoons for a single-serving fillet. Be generous, because this oil will not only help protect the fish and keep it moist, but it’ll create a delicious elixir to mop up with a heel of bread at the table. Flip the fish over once or twice in the oil to make sure the whole fillet is coated, then slide that baking dish into the oven—no need to cover it—and wait about 20 minutes. Maybe 24 if your fillet is super-fat (lucky you).
That’s it. Before long, your fish will emerge from the oven tender, silky, and flavorful. No splatter, no lingering smell.
While you’re waiting for the fish to cook, take the initiative to create a little side dish for yourself. Maybe, if it’s warm out and you have the goods on hand, you’ll halve some ripe cherry tomatoes, cube a perfect peach, snip up some chives, mince a tiny red chili pepper, and toss the lot with a few blackberries and a splash of sherry vinegar. You’ll tumble this colorful jumble onto a plate with your now-lovely fillet, tear off some bread, pour a glass of something refreshing, and that’s it. Dinner is served, and you haven’t even made it all the way through your Stevie Wonder album.
Here’s something to keep in your back pocket: If you do have a dinner companion, or a few, this same method, temperature, and timing works just fine for up to four fillets. Just increase the oil proportionately. If you have an even bigger guest list and a bigger piece of fish, same deal (though it might take just a little bit longer in the oven).
Gently-Roasted Fish for One
This recipe works for salmon, cod, or halibut. If your fillet is slimmer than 1 1/2 inches, check it at about 18 minutes.
A Colorful Jumble for Fish
This summery mix goes especially well with halibut, but it’s also charming with cod or salmon.
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