If a Taco Is Dinner, So Is a Summer Roll

Plus, tiny pasta disguised as a salad

I recently made my pitch for frying at home, which is something that many cooks are reluctant to do but is actually fairly easy, not that scary, and so damn good. The first recipe here is further proof: Fish Tacos. Fair warning: If you cook these for other people, they may ask for them again and again. Fried food can have that effect.

While nobody would question that a fish taco qualifies as dinner, most people would call Vietnamese summer rolls an appetizer. I suppose that’s fair, but really they’re both just stuff contained in a wrapper, and I would (and do!) happily eat a few summer rolls for a light dinner on a hot summer night. You’ll most commonly find these with shrimp, but I like them just as much with tofu, and of course any other cooked or leftover proteins are fair game.