It’s Time to Think About Sugar Differently

Many varieties can introduce bold new flavors into your cooking.

Published April 3, 2025

Malai’s Jaggery Ice Cream, from the upcoming Malai: Frozen Desserts Inspired by South Asian Flavors. Photo: Morgan Ione Yeager

When trying a new dessert recipe, I have become that person who instinctively cuts the required sugar in half. Despite my insatiable sweet tooth as a child, over the years my attraction to the addictive white crystals has waned. 

Perhaps it’s the gradual adult adaptation to bitter coffee and 85% dark chocolate, but I find myself craving something beyond the cloying sweetness of childhood confections. I throw miso into cookies, tahini into brownies, and even fish sauce into caramel, edging sweets into something borderline savory. “Not too sweet” has become my enthusiastic stamp of approval, a phrase that to me simply means, “I taste something other than sugar.”


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