One of the Most Rewarding Home Cooking Projects I Know

Tamales: they're more a test of patience than technique.

Published August 20, 2025

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New York City, where I grew up and where I still spend lots of my time, may be a great food city, but it’s far from a great street food city. Yes, we have hot dog, halal, and coffee carts, and we have bad pizza. But compared to street food meccas like Bangkok, Mexico City, or Istanbul …. well, there is no comparison.

There are some exceptions, of course, and none better than the people (often women) who sell tamales from small carts, often alongside things like pozole and esquites (warm grilled corn salad served in a Styrofoam cup). The tamales are stored in big metal pots, coolers, or some vessel hidden inside a heavy black trash bag, and delivered hot. Honestly, eating a steaming tamale on the corner or while walking to wherever you’re going next—it’s kind of transformative.


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