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Makes 8 3-inch rolls (8 servings) 1x
Time 8-12 hours for the jumpstarter; about 3 hours intermittent activity to mix and fold the dough; and about 1 and a half hours to fill, roll, cut, rest, and bake the rolls
When you’re ready to make the dough, add the remaining 200 grams flour and 100 grams water to the jumpstarter. Stir with a rubber spatula or your wet hands until a dough forms and looks springy, 1 to 2 minutes. If there’s still flour not incorporated around the bottom or edges of the bowl, stir in more water, 5 grams at a time, as you work. The dough should be wet and shaggy but will form a loose ball. Cover again and let it sit for 1 hour.
With wet hands, fold the salt into the dough, adding enough water to create a sheen on the surface without the dough losing its ability to hold a loose shape. Cover and let it sit for 30 minutes.
Proceed with the four folds at 30-minute or so intervals. As you work, wet your hands and the dough with enough water so it becomes smooth while holding some shape. After the third fold, make the filling: Mash 85 grams, 3/4 stick, of the butter in a small bowl with 50 grams of the sugar and cinnamon.
After the fourth fold, line a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, springform pan, or baking dish with a sheet of parchment paper that’s big enough to overhang the rim by a few inches; press it into the bottom and crease the edges over the lip to keep it in place. Turn the dough onto a wet work surface and use wet hands to press it into a rectangle no more than a half-inch thick, about 14×9 inches, with the longer side toward you. Dab the top evenly with bits of the cinnamon mixture. (Don’t try to spread it or you’ll tear the dough!) If you’re using the raisins, scatter them evenly on top. Working from the long side closest to you, gently stretch and roll the dough tightly to enclose the filling. Set the log seam side down and cut it crosswise into 8 rolls. Put them in the pan so the spirals face up, fitting them in against each other and tucking in the seams. Cover and let the rolls rest until they puff slightly and an indent made with your finger springs back slowly, 15 to 30 minutes.
Dab the tops with the remaining 28 grams of butter and sprinkle with the remaining 25 grams of sugar. Cover the pan with foil, put it in a cold oven, and set the heat to 400°F. Remove the foil after 30 minutes and continue baking until the tops form a golden crust and the filling is bubbling, 15 to 20 minutes more; an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest bready part should register 200°F. Let the rolls cool in the pan for a few minutes, then lift them out by the parchment. Serve warm.
— Recipe from Bittman Bread