Coq Au Vin with Shiitakes

1. Put the chicken serving pieces in a large shallow bowl or baking dish and rub them generously all over with salt and pepper; pour the wine over and toss to coat. Keep the chicken submerged with a plate if necessary, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24.
2. About 2 hours before you’re ready to braise the chicken, heat the oven to 400°F. Put the chicken wings (and feet if you’ve got them) in a large roasting pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, shaking the pan once or twice, until the meat is falling off the bone and the skin is browned, 45 to 55 minutes. Transfer the wings and all the fat and pan drippings to a large pot. Add a little water to the pan, scrape up any browned bits, and add that too. Add the onion, carrots, celery, several parsley sprigs (reserve the rest), thyme, and bay leaves. Trim the stems from the mushrooms and add them to the pot with 4 cups water; reserve the mushroom caps.
3. Lift the chicken from the wine marinade and transfer the pieces to a paper towel–lined plate and pat dry.  Add the marinade to the pot with the wings and vegetables and bring to a simmer, then lower the heat so the mixture bubbles gently but steadily. Cook, skimming any foam from the top and stirring as necessary to prevent sticking, until the vegetables are quite soft and the stock is dark and fragrant, at least 1 hour but no longer than 2. Strain the stock, pressing on the solids to extract more juice; discard the solids and return the stock to the pot. Bring the liquid to a steady bubble, and let it reduce by about a third while you cook the chicken.
4. Put the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until it renders fat and becomes brown and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes; remove it with a slotted spoon. Add half the chicken to the pan, skin side down. Cook, turning the pieces when they release easily from the pan and rotating them so they brown evenly, until the skin is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. As they finish, transfer them to a plate and repeat with the remaining chicken.
5. Slice the shiitake caps and smash the garlic with the flat side of a knife blade. Pour off all but 4 tablespoons fat from the skillet and add the mushrooms, garlic, and pearl onions. Raise the heat to medium high, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms release their liquid and the pan is dry again, 10 to 15 minutes. Add 1 cup of the stock and the reserved bacon and scrape any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
6. Nestle the chicken legs, thighs, and wings into the skillet skin side up. Add enough stock to almost submerge the meat, bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the liquid bubbles gently and cover. Cook, checking once in a while to make sure nothing is scorching, until you can pierce the chicken easily with a fork, 30 to 40 minutes. Add the breasts to the pan and more stock if necessary. Sprinkle with the tarragon, and continue cooking until the chicken is tender and cooked through; an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast should read between 150°F to 155°F. Chop 2 tablespoons of the remaining parsley leaves.
7. Transfer the chicken to a shallow serving bowl and use a slotted spoon to scatter the mushroom mixture on top; keep warm. Add whatever stock remains in the pot to the skillet and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring frequently until the mixture reduces and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon a little of the sauce on the chicken, garnish with the parsley, and serve, passing the remaining sauce at  the table.

— Dinner for Everyone