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Makes 3 or 4 servings 1x
Time 45 minutes
Rhubarb gets silkier than most fruit, leaving behind a terrific sauce for the chicken. If you use asparagus, snap or shell peas, or all alliums instead, you’ll want to add a little more wine or water. Rice, potatoes, or bread are nice on the plate, too. (You could also use pork chops here, or frozen lima or cooked or canned butter beans.)
I considered finishing the braise with sprightly tarragon or mint from my reemerging herb garden. Instead I netted out with, nah, the brightness of the rhubarb will deliver plenty of flavor. And it did. But a scattering of herb might have been lagniappe and certainly would have made the dish more attractive. (Though I’m generally thumbs down on gratuitous garnishing.) I won’t know for sure until the next time, but you have a chance to try some herbs from the get-go.
1. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, sprinkle several pieces of the chicken with salt and pepper as you put them in the pan. (You’re going to work in two batches to get good browning.) Cook until the bottom is browned and releases easily from the pan, 3 to 5 minutes. Repeat with the other side, move the chicken to a plate, and do the same thing with the remaining pieces.
2. Add the green garlic (or scallions) to the pan along with the wine and stir to scrape up all the browned bits in the skillet. Add the rhubarb and stir until coated. Add enough wine or water to just coat the bottom of the pan and bring to a gentle bubble.
3. Nestle the chicken into the rhubarb (either side up) and cover. Simmer until the rhubarb is soft enough to mash (but don’t) and the chicken is cooked through and has rendered most of its fat, 15 to 20 minutes. Uncover and raise the heat if necessary to boil some liquid from the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with herbs (or not!), and serve.
— Recipe developed by Kerri Conan