Many Ways to Cook Steak

Charcoal-Grilled Porterhouse or T-Bone Steak
These bone-in combination tenderloin-and-strip-loin cuts are best when 1 1/2 inches thick or thicker, weighing about 2 pounds, in which case they will serve 4 to 6 people after slicing: In Step 2, grill for 4 to 5 minutes per side, taking care not to burn the meat; the leaner tenderloin (the smaller of the two pieces on either side of the bone) is best very rare, so keep it toward the cooler part of the fire. Check for doneness. If not done yet, move the steaks to the cooler part of the grill and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes per side before checking again.

Steaks on a Gas Grill
Works for either the main recipe or the first variation. Since you’re covering the grill and trapping heat, the steaks will cook faster and will develop a charbroiled-style crust: Prepare a gas grill for hot indirect cooking; make sure the grates are clean. Season the steaks and put them over the fire as described in Step 2, then close the grill. After turning, check thin steaks for doneness after 1 minute, thick porterhouse or T-bones after 2 minutes.

Pan-Grilled Steak
A terrific option for steaks no more than 1 inch thick, provided you have a strong exhaust fan; otherwise, try the Reverse Sear option below: Heat a cast-iron or heavy steel skillet just large enough to hold the steaks over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes; the pan should be smoking hot. Sprinkle in some coarse salt and add the steaks. Clouds of smoke will instantly appear; do not turn down the heat. The timing remains the same as for charcoal-grilled steaks. If you want pepper, add it after you turn the steaks for the last time.

Broiled Steak
Also good for 1-inch-thick steaks: Turn on the broiler and position the rack about 4 inches below the heat; let it get fully hot. About 10 minutes before you’re ready to cook, put a rimmed baking sheet on the rack. Season the steaks with salt and pepper and put them into the hot pan. Timing will depend on the heat of your broiler, so check for doneness frequently. The steak will sear on both sides without turning. Serve with any pan drippings poured on top if you like.

Pan-Grilled, Oven-Roasted Steak
An excellent method if you don’t have a first-rate exhaust system or your steak is thicker than 1 1/2 inches: Heat the oven to 500°F and set a rack in the lowest possible position. Heat a cast-iron or other sturdy ovenproof skillet large enough to hold the steaks over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes; the pan should be really hot, just about smoking. Sprinkle the pan with coarse salt and put in the steaks. Carefully but immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Roast the steaks, turning once and sprinkling with pepper; timing remains the same as for grilled steaks; thick steaks will take longer but check them frequently.

Reverse-Seared Steak
And for something totally different, a technique that works for the main recipe or any of the variations. (Even broiling: Either start with the low temperature or begin with the rack 6 inches from the heat source.) Basically, do the exact opposite of the directions above: On a charcoal or gas grill, start the steaks on the cooler side and cook, turning once, until they’re much less done in the center than you want them but cooked on the outside, 3 to 5 minutes total for 1-inch steaks, a minute or 2 longer if thicker. Then move them to the hot side of the grill to brown both sides; it will only take a couple of minutes. If using a pan variation, start it over medium-low heat or in a 300°F oven and use the same timing before cranking up the heat for final browning.