1 1/2ounces Italian or French bread (stale is fine)
1/2cup milk
2pounds mixed ground meat, ideally equal parts
beef chuck, veal, and pork shoulder
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces),
plus more for serving
1/2cup plus 2tablespoons chopped fresh parsley,
plus more for garnish
Salt and pepper
1/2cup ricotta cheese
1/2cup chopped fresh basil
8ounces fresh mozzarella, chopped
Instructions
Heat the oven to 400°F. Put 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring once in a while until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add half the onion and half the garlic and cook, stirring again, until soft and golden, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook until slightly darkened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice, oregano, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Partially cover and let the sauce simmer, stirring once in a while until the meatloaf is ready, or at least 1 hour. (You can make the sauce up to a few days ahead of time. Reheat before serving and remove the oregano and bay leaves.)
Use 1 tablespoon oil to grease a large roasting pan. Rip the bread into big pieces and pulse in the food processor until coarsely ground; put 1/2 cup breadcrumbs in a large bowl, reserve the rest (if any) for another use. Add the milk and let the mixture until the bread absorbs the liquid.
Put 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the remaining onion and garlic and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat to cool. Add the onion mixture to a large bowl with the breadcrumbs and add the meat, egg, Parmesan, and 1/4 cup parsley and season with plenty of salt and pepper. Mix by hand just enough to combine. (To taste and adjust the seasoning, cook a small pinch of the meat in a pan or microwave.)
Combine the ricotta, basil, and remaining 2 tablespoons parsley in a small bowl, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fold in the mozzarella. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Transfer the meat mixture to the prepared roasting pan, shape it into a ball, and use your fist to make a well in the top. Fill with the cheese mixture and mold the meat back into one seamless ball, enclosing the filling completely. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the meat reads 160°F and the filling reads at least 145°F, 60 to 70 minutes. Let the meatloaf sit for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing. To serve, cut the meatloaf into wedges, ladle some sauce on top, garnish with parsley, and pass grated Parmesan at the table.