These Brownies Are Transcendent

Published January 8, 2024

A secret ingredient makes for a game changing dessert

Photo: Holly Haines

Here’s a solution to the very Holly-specific problem of wanting a brownie with some kind of crunch, sans nuts: Panko breadcrumbs have entered the chat.

I wanted the texture that typically comes with walnuts or almonds or pecans in most brownie applications—but not the flavor—so I rummaged through the cabinets in search of something crunchy with little to no flavor on its own. That’s when I came across panko, a flaky Japanese-style breadcrumb made from crustless bread that’s been ground into slivers and dried. It’s typically used for fried dishes like tonkatsu, producing a light and crispy coating. I stirred the panko together with browned butter and miso paste and used that as both a bottom crust and a topping for my favorite cocoa-based brownie recipe.

The crust.

For cocoa powder: I keep several on hand because I’m a ridiculous person and a pantry-stable ingredient-hoarder. My current combination is black cocoa powder (that’s the same stuff used in Oreos, to give you an idea of the flavor) and Guittard’s Cocoa Rouge blend. Both are Dutch-processed, or alkalized, and therefore low in acidity. Natural cocoa will also work—use what you have or experiment with something new.

I think my favorite part of this recipe is that it all comes together in one saucepan: Melt the butter and miso together for the panko, wipe out the pan, melt more butter for the brownies and stir in the rest of the ingredients—no bowls needed. Hallelujah for one less dish to wash!

I was hesitant to share this recipe because who but me would want a crunchy brownie? Turns out, a lot of people! It’s a high-idea (an idea that comes to me while under the influence of a sativa) come to life, and it’s a delight. On my first bite, it immediately reminded me of the burnt-y cheese on the crust of a grandma slice of pizza, but a dessert version, and that’s exactly what I wanted.


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