Embrace the new season with something soft and luxe spooned over a thick slice of crunchy toast
I bristle at the idea that comfort food must be soft. Two textures are more calming than one. First you gnash in to meet the resistance and gravity of everyday life teeth-on with a crunch — desperate to find the balm you know must be there — then mid-bite a soothing ooze takes over and all is right with the world. Now that’s the kind of hug we all need to be eating right now as the days grow darker.
So when summer suddenly ends but you’re not quite ready for the straight-up heartiness of Mushroom-Barley Soup, try making bread beds. Start with plant-driven quick braises and saucy stir-fries — maybe soupy beans or mashed vegetables and a fried egg. Then meld the casual vibe of warm-weather cooking with the first nip of fall by eating a generous spoonful of whatever you’ve got over thickly sliced toast. You know, like a firm mattress topped with a cozy comforter.
We produce reported pieces, profiles, interviews, and rants about what’s broken in the food world (there’s a lot) and how to change things for the better. People sometimes tell me to just keep politics out of it. Respectfully: No. Food is political. We can’t and won’t ignore that.