Changing Lunch Options, One School at a Time

Published October 18, 2023

Plus: Good eats in DC, the so-called Skittles “ban,” and a stupid use of AI


This Week’s Marksisms

Food with Mark Bittman: Nancy Easton and Bill Telepan

Today’s conversation is with my friends Nancy Easton and Bill Telepan. Nancy, an educator, founded what became Wellness in the Schools in 2005—almost 20 years ago. Wellness in the Schools is an organization that, among other things, teaches and helps school cooks learn how to execute food from scratch—a big, radical departure from the direction things had and have been going in for the last 50 years.

In 2008, Nancy recruited one of New York’s most famous, beloved, and personable chefs, Bill Telepan, who at the time was running the well-known and, again, beloved, Upper West Side restaurant, Telepan. Bill became the executive chef for Wellness in the Schools (he is also culinary director at the Metropolitan Museum of Art).

Nancy and Bill have worked very closely together for the last 15 years and have had a number of successes—somewhat startling successes—which will ultimately lead to the full funding of Wellness in the Schools as a training program in New York’s public school system, which serves more meals per day than any other entity in the US, excluding the military.

It’s a great story, and Nancy and Bill are enthusiastic, lively, fun, and wonderful people. Hope you’ll listen—and review Food on Apple, if you’re so inclined.

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Eating Well (Well, 50% Of the Time) In DC

I was in DC for 48 hours last week; many conversations, many old friends, and way too much of the conversation about those (insert expletive) Republicans. There were some meals, too, only half of them disappointing. The two good ones were at Centrolina, which has remained reliable since the last time I ate there (2018!) and at Danny Lee’s (and Angel Baretto’s) Anju, which is a total treat.


Lots of Things Worth Reading This Week: Big Food’s Influence, a Skittles “Ban,” UPF Addiction …

Nothing to see here, move right along: “Food Industry Influence Could Cloud the U.S. Dietary Guidelines.” The influence of industry representatives over so-called watchdog agencies is long, ongoing, and well-documented. While we’re at it, the so-called Skittles ban (as if Mars couldn’t figure out how to make Skittles without these things!). And more on ultraprocessed food addiction.


Ozempic Again

More on Ozempic. The short version is, Wall Street is worried that people will eat less

The content below was originally paywalled.

and become less sick: That’s Bad for Business!


A Stupid Use of AI

This is the headline of the week, and a good story, too: AI Is Writing Books About Foraging. What Could Go Wrong?


Well-Meaning But Misguided

There’s a lot to unpack in this package from Vittles. But I actually disagree with the fundamental premise. There is a real difference between ultraprocessed food and not-so-processed food and pointing out that difference is neither shaming nor elitist. Since none of us (almost) is a farmer, we can only eat what is being sold. If what’s being sold is generally not good for us, that’s a point worth reiterating. Nevertheless, worth reading, with some interesting side-links.


Gender And … Shop Class?

Not food, but compelling: Ezra Klein interviews Masha Gessen on gender; and … Bring Back Shop Class!

See you next week.


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