1. Theodora Beach Club
Theodora in Brooklyn is one of my favorite restaurant experiences in New York, and they now have a beach club, which I was very excited about — except that it has only communal table seating. I’m generally socially awkward, so it’s no surprise that this type of seating at any restaurant makes me nervous. But then I remembered what Julia Child said: “People who love to eat are always the best people,” and that eased my mind. I went ahead and made a reservation at the beach club, figuring that anyone else who made a reservation there would also love eating at Theodora, and there would be nothing but the best people there.
And guess what, Reader? Julia was right.
Every weekend throughout the summer, Theodora builds a kitchen from scratch, right on the beach. Communal table seating surrounds the biggest fire pit I’ve ever seen, with racks of fruit and fish and beef slowly smoking as diners enter. You’ll have to understand that my favorite genre of food is “burn-ty meat,” so wood-fired anything makes my soul sing.
My friend and I got there on the early side, and found branded beach chairs and cornhole set up. There was also a delicious welcome cocktail — a melon spritz —which paired nicely with the sand between my toes.
Seating was assigned (which also made me nervous because now I’d have to sit next to a stranger), but the company was absolutely delightful — and our side of the table actually ended up sharing a bottle of wine. The vibes were immaculate, the conversation was pleasant, I was nervous for nothing.
We started with grilled oysters with a fish fat curry, and I wish I’d had 12 more. Next came tilefish crudo, a dish I was familiar with from the restaurant and was happy to see on that night’s family-style menu.
The second part of the crudo course was new to me — yellowfin tuna with mango and habanero, enjoyed as a sort of lettuce wrap.
For the bread course, another familiar favorite — whipped ricotta toast with honey and sage. Historically, I am not a fan of ricotta (the texture is not my favorite), but when it’s whipped, load me up. The next bread bite was one that surprised and delighted me the most — saj (a type of unleavened flatbread) with eggplant, labneh, and shifka (a spicy pickled pepper). The smokiness of the eggplant with the cool creaminess of the labneh was a perfect bite.
Then, the whole grilled red snapper hit the table. We all ooh’d and ahh’d, and for good reason — it is a beautiful dish. We’d been staring at the fish hanging over the fire pit since we walked in, and to finally have it on the table was deeply satisfying. The fish arrived on a bed of Chinese broccoli with anchovy vinaigrette, garnished with grapes that had been gently smoking over the fire.
If you have a chance to attend Theodora Beach Club (note: this is the last weekend — get yourself there if you can!), I would call that an excellent life choice. It’s a beautiful way to meet some of the best people — my friend and I are having dinner with our tablemates this week.
Hot tip: bring some bug spray. – Holly
2. Cruise with me
In the last couple of years, I’ve traveled from Hong Kong to Tokyo, from Buenos Aires to Antarctica, and from Barcelona to Madrid — all on a cruise ship. A Regent Seven Seas cruise ship, to be precise. Regent makes cruising effortless: beautiful rooms, all with balconies; spectacular service; plentiful and fresh food and drink. I’ll be on a Mediterranean voyage from Athens to Istanbul in November that I’d love for you to join me on—email us at members@bittmanproject.com to get on the list for details. To book your cruise, call 1.866.585.0942 and mention “Friends with Mark Bittman” and save up to 50% off. – Mark
3. Two novels “we” are loving
Today my dad and I both, independently, wanted to tell the other about a book. That feels like a good reason to tell you all about it. He is loving John Lanchester’s Look What You Made Me Do; and I recently finished Whistler, by Ann Patchett, and can say in total honesty that it’s one of the best books I’ve ever read. So if you need a Labor Day weekend read… there you go. – Kate
4. $20 off your first 3 orders at Thrive Market
Thrive Market is a convenient way to stock up on all your staples. Kate loves it for coconut milk and coconut oil, sea salt, canned tomatoes, crackers, sponges, cleaning supplies—and coffee! (Their coffee is really good.) The (small) membership fee is more than made up for with the discounts you’ll receive on every order. Try Thrive Market today and receive $20 off your first 3 orders, plus a free $60 gift of your choice!
Comment