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On Our Minds and in Our Carts: Mark Talks Cyclospora

Plus: tomato soup, the best coconut rice, our first bread pop-up, a bunch of recipes perfect for now, and a giveaway.

Cantuccioni (Oversized Soft Biscotti)

I spent a coffee-fueled morning looking for inspiration in the streets of Siena’s historic center, stopping in at every café and pasticceria I came across to down a shot of espresso and ogle and taste their selections of ricciarelli and other cookies.

At Panificio Il Magnifico I found an unexpected and delightful stand out: cantuccioni. The name means big cantucci, and these oversize sliced cookies do share some similarities with the famous crunchy twice-baked cantucci di Prato. But they are also entirely their own thing.

The sugar-coated cookies are first baked as small, fat loaves. Then they are cut into large, oblong slices, fitted back together, and packaged in cellophane bags tied with red raffia string. I bought a package, expecting something like classic crunchy coffeehouse biscotti. Instead, the cookies were soft, tender, and crumbly. I realized they had been baked just once, rather than twice like classic cantucci. They were so good dunked in cappuccino that I resolved to figure out how to make them at home. It took a few tries, but here they are.

By the way, these cookies make an artful holiday or hostess gift packaged in cellophane bags and tied with colorful string, the way Panificio Il Magnifico does it. – Domenica Marchetti

Pasticcini di Mandorla (Little Almond Cookies)

How I love these elegant little almond sweets. Their ingredients are similar to other almond-based cookies in this book. But it’s the pretty piping and finishing flourishes, plus a splash of amaretto liqueur, that elevate them beyond an everyday cookie. Pasticcini di mandorla are a classic of Sicilian pasticceria and every bakery sells them. They vary in character; some are more like little mouthfuls of marzipan, others are like cookies in texture, with a crispy exterior and tender center. Some are piped, others molded by hand into little rounds or misshapen nuggets. The typical decoration for these cookies is red and green glacé cherries, but you can stud them with almonds, if you prefer. I tend to do some of each. The final touch is a light brushing of honey once the cookies come out of the oven, which gives them an alluring shine. – Domenica Marchetti

Occhi di Bue (Bulls-Eye Jam Cookies)

These classic jam-filled butter cookies are by no means exclusive to Italy. But they are ubiquitous in Italian pastry shops, especially in Alto Adige, where alpine butter is essential to baking. There, they are also known as Spitzbuben, a nod to the region’s bilingual status and its proximity to Austria. Be sure to use a good-quality jam—homemade if you have it. If you want to go all out, try filling them with Nutella or pistachio cream. – Domenica Marchetti

On Our Minds and in Our Carts: Here’s What to Do With All That Zucchini

A wonderful summer recipe, ‘our’ butter, a frozen aisle alternative, and Shirley Chung’s journey.

Slow-Cooked Zucchini with Basil, Garlic, and Olive Oil

Here’s an Italian-inspired stewy vegetable dish of the kind I love so much. With enough good olive oil and garlic, firm, small-gauged zucchini becomes a perfect no-effort stew to eat on a hot summer night with ripped-off hunks of bread and a bit of sharp ricotta salata or pecorino. This method of cooking also works well for onions, peppers, beans, and more. Ingredients cooked this way are wonderful both at room temperature and chilled (though you don’t want them too cold, or the olive oil will still be solid—take them out of the fridge fifteen minutes before serving, and make sure to add a big glug of spicy olive oil before you serve. – Renee Erickson

On Our Minds and in Our Carts: An Emulsification Success Story

GOOD peaches, a sandwich that will satisfy your bánh mì craving, and an emulsification success story.

On Our Minds and in Our Carts: Crispy Potato Salad

A fitting tribute to a food hero, a careful selection of useful recipes, free croissants, and what to do about your hooch-y starter.

Crispy Potato Salad

When I was a child, potato salad was one of the few things I had to eat fresh while it was still warm. As soon as my mama finished adding the seasonings, I wanted a bowl because I wasn’t a fan of cold potato salad. Now, as an adult, I can eat cold potato salad, but I just prefer it to have some crunch or for it to be on the chunky side, so crispy potato salad was the perfect combo! One day, I cooked roasted potatoes and ate a few crispy ones and thought about a coating being on it but with a mayo richness, and that’s when I had the idea to try it as a chunky potato salad! I added carrots because I love a raw cold crunch, like crisp lettuce or cold veggies. The best part is that this salad holds some of the firmness when it cools, and it’s still delicious! Let me tell you, the shredded carrots are optional, but will blow your mind altogether! – Toya Boudy

African Spinach Stew

Spinach is a sign of strength, resourcefulness, and its connection to earth. It’s a humble and grounding meal that can heal the body as well. All those things you need when starting over from any point; in fact, it’s one of your greatest needs! I cooked this and I immediately thought of my daddy; the bold flavors go perfectly with smoked meats. I sent him a container and he immediately called and said how he loved it and how the flavor was crazy! – Toya Boudy

Plain Cake

Malinda Russell wrote down a recipe for plain cake back in 1866, when she was the first known Black woman to publish a cookbook in this country. What I love about it is how it’s just the basics, but still full of meaning. When I bake this cake, I think of how she didn’t just write recipes, she left a piece of herself in those pages. It reminds me that even the simplest cake can carry a story and a whole lot of history with it. – Toya Boudy

Homestyle White Beans

I’m a bean-­any-­way-­you-­cook-­them type of girl, and I’m a sucker for a good pot of white beans. For some reason, I don’t want fried chicken with white beans; I want baked chicken or ham. It just feels like the right thing to do. To me, white beans have a smoother and softer taste, almost heartwarming. You can eat them with rice, but recently, I cooked and ate them alone in a bowl when it was cold outside. My advice would be to fill a quart-­size freezer bag with cooked beans, and freeze it for a go-to meal in the future. – Toya Boudy

Oyster Dip

Let me tell you this ahead of time: You need discipline when making this, or you need to make double. It’s that good! It is a cute, quick appetizer that’s perfect for a dinner where you want to leave an impression but you don’t want to work that hard. This dip has never failed me; you can actually put a teaspoon of it on a cracker with chopped green onion and call it a day! – Toya Boudy

Mini Crawfish Pies

In New Orleans, there’s nothing more exciting than walking up to the food table and seeing mini crawfish pies! It’s a homestyle New Orleans delicacy: crawfish with a creamy light gravy, sautéed seasonings, and a buttered crust. It’s the best three to four bites of YO LIFE. I think the mini pies are the best bet, because you get the most servings and you get to freeze them if you make too many! Pop them in the oven to reheat, and joy is born again! – Toya Boudy

On Our Minds and in Our Carts

A correction to a delicious candy recipe, vegetables that freeze when you don’t want them to, Mark’s books for cheap, and Kate’s latest tinned obsession.

Our Friday Emails Are Gonna Look Different

Fridays have, for a while now, been reserved for either ​your questions/our answers​ or for ​our recommendations​. But we weren’t feeling inspired by either as a standalone—it all felt too prescriptive. So here’s what we’re doing instead.

Chocolate Malta Cake

We’ve all seen our fair share of chocolate sweets and bakes infused with coffee. But have you ever heard about, let alone taste, what happens when you give malta a try instead? Bitter, sweet, rich, hoppy, and amazingly elevated. – Paola Velez

PB&J Pots de Crème

Pot de crème is a fancy French term for “pudding,” which is an ideal vehicle for the very American flavors of a PB&J. In this case, it’s guava jelly, because #caribbean. – Paola Velez

The Lemon Cookie

They call me the cookie lady. The kids in my family do, at least, because they’ve come to expect that I’ll show up with a big batch of these soft and fluffy delicias every time there’s a holiday gathering. I am always happy to oblige. Think of these as a cross between a sugar cookie and extra-sour lemonade. – Paola Velez

Question Mark: Am I Ruining My Pans?

We love hearing from our community, and there’s nothing better than sparking real conversations around your questions. This week: warped pans, buckwhat confusion, and the best ways to support farmers.