Are Restaurants Too Shaken To Be Innovative?

Catching up on the world of dining out.

Published September 28, 2022

Welcome to the first “restaurant” episode of Food with Mark Bittman.

Although I did begin my food career reviewing restaurants back in New Haven in the eighties, I never liked that job so much, and in New York at least — which is my hometown — I never felt qualified to compare restaurants. I had my favorites, of course, and still do, but when people ask me for restaurant recommendations, that’s really all I’ve been qualified to do, is to say, “I like this place.” I have never been current. It’s just safe to say that although I have opinions, when I go out to eat, I either ask for recommendations or I just pick more or less randomly.

Still, like just about everyone, I’m interested in restaurants, and in the state of restaurants right now, especially in New York, which was hit harder than maybe anywhere else during Covid, and which continues to recover.

So Kate and I agreed we’d pick the brain of our esteemed colleague Melissa McCart, who’s the editor of the Bittman Project. Melissa really does keep up with restaurants in New York. We had a lot of questions for her. It’s a different kind of conversation for us, and one I hope you’ll find interesting.

Please listen, subscribe, and review. And we’d love to hear your food-related questions, as we’d like to start doing live Q&A: Email us: food@markbittman.com. The recipe featured in today’s episode — Jean-Georges’ Ginger Fried Rice, in honor of my good friend and one of my actual favorite restaurants — is below.

Thank you, as always. — Mark

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Jean-Georges’ Ginger Fried Rice

Evan Sung

Like all fried-rice dishes, this begins with leftover rice (freshly cooked rice is too moist to fry well). It’s jasmine rice here, but white from takeout works nearly as well and is more convenient. Perhaps unsurprisingly — this is a chef’s recipe, after all — separate cooking processes are called for: ginger and garlic are crisped, leeks softened, rice and eggs fried. But no step takes more than a few minutes, and the results are absolutely worth the effort.


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