My definition of “real” pickles is this: the kind you put up in jars and eat in January and think of summer, the kind that in my mind a real pantry is full of. But I’m rejecting that notion, because not only is canning a hassle of the first order, but I don’t even like those kinds of pickles. What I like are vinegar-free, salty-garlicky half-sours, which is not surprising since that’s what I grew up with. They’re pickle-barrel pickles and, as it happens, they’re among the easiest things in the world to make.