My first run-in with chicken liver was at my bris, but I had more important things to worry about that day. When I was growing up, there was always the looming presence of chopped chicken livers in a crystal boat, surrounded by Carr’s table water crackers and a bottle of Manischewitz wine, on Nana Arlene’s table. Most of my early memories are of Papa Howie, Nana Arlene’s husband, talking with liver breath, chewing loudly, and getting it all over his mouth. So understandably, I was terrified of liver well into my teens. But in adulthood, it’s become sort of an obsession, and it’s a centerpiece of the menu at Agi’s Counter. My trick is adding cream cheese, an easy hack for more flavor and to boost the texture. Instead of mealy chopped liver, everything is pureed into one even, creamy mousse, and the tang of the cream cheese offsets the iron taste of the liver, while caramelized onions and port bring plenty of sweetness forward. It’s so deliciously spreadable, it’ll convert even the most fearful. – Jeremy Salamon