Eggplant

There are dozens of eggplant varieties, though the most common are big dark globes. The other shapes and varieties are worth seeking out at Asian or Italian groceries and farmers’ markets. You can’t cut them into big slices, but you can adapt most recipes for them.

Preparing: Trim the stem end. Peel if you like; if the eggplant is good, the skin is sometimes the best part. Slice it crosswise or lengthwise between 1/2 inch and 1 inch thick or cube it any size. Salting eggplant to remove bitterness is optional: slice or chop it, sprinkle it liberally with salt, and let it rest in a colander for up to an hour; rinse, pat dry, and proceed with the recipe.

Best cooking methods: roasting, grilling, broiling, sautéing, stir-frying

When is it done? When it’s tender, almost creamy, and there are no dry spots