Unexpected Spring Eating

Saying goodbye to winter is an easy task when spring staples begin making appearances. The joy-inducing colors and flavors brought to us by artichokes, peas, radishes, spinach, and more feel like a welcome reset.

When was the last time, for example, that you enjoyed a heaping pile of peas? Have you ever tried tossing them with curry butter, shallots, lemon zest, and mint? Or, what about radishes—crunchy, peppery, and bright served alongside creamy avocado, bright and simple dressing, charnushka (also known as nigella or onion seed), and a heavy sprinkling of fresh dill? How about a beautiful and comforting bowl of creamed mushrooms and baby spinach, topped with crispy fried artichokes and coarsely cracked pepper?

Around this time of year, while some might get swept up in an endless search for ramps, or in finding the perfect way to prepare bundles of asparagus while they’re at their peak, these recipes are less fleeting. In other words, they’re evergreen. If you have access to a farmers’ market or good quality organic ingredients, that’s ideal. But, if your peas are still frozen, your herbs are still dried, or your artichokes are still peacefully nestled in a can in your pantry, you can still put together these dishes that match the mood of the new season of growth.

Curry-Buttered English Peas with Lemon, Mint, and Shallots

Shucking peas is a delightful Sunday morning activity, but when it makes more sense to use frozen ones, they’ll work well, too. This recipe will leave you with extra curry butter, which can be made ahead of time—use it for roasting chicken and vegetables, and when broiling fish or potatoes or making pan sauces. When garnishing, go heavy on the lemon zest and mint. Note: If you’re using frozen peas, they don’t need to be blanched, only heated through before serving. You can run them under cold water and dry them before adding them to a frying pan with the diced shallots and curry butter.