Buttermilk-Crusted Backyard (or Stovetop) Burgers

Photo: Kerri Conan

PUBLISHED May 21, 2024

Blizzarding your burgers in buttermilk powder before cooking has a couple surprising benefits. Most important, it creates a crust and seals in juices, even at relatively low temperatures. So you can get a good char on even the thickest sliders without drying out the inside. (See the main recipe for grilling or the variation that follows for stovetop cooking.)

 

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The technique works for all ground meats patted every way you can imagine, cooked to any degree of doneness. Another plus is that the powder becomes a seasoning delivery system, whether that’s simple salt and pepper or spice blends; as the mixture melts and forms the crust, it dissolves into the burger, where all the science-y magic will happen.

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Buttermilk-Crusted Backyard (or Stovetop) Burgers

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Makes 4 to 8 patties 1x

Time about an hour, including heating the grill (half that if cooking on the stove)

Units Scale

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Start the coals or heat a gas grill for medium direct cooking. Make sure the grates are clean.
  2. Put the buttermilk powder, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Add the ground spices if you’re using them and stir to combine. Get a platter or rimmed baking sheet nearby. Handling the ground meat as little as possible, lightly shape the meat into 4 large or 8 slider-size burgers (or anywhere in between); you can make the patties up to 1 1/2 inches thick to 1/2 inch thin for wide, flat “smash burgers.” As you work, put the burgers on the platter or pan, keeping a little space in between. (You can make the patties up to several hours ahead of cooking. Cover with parchment paper and refrigerate; bring them to room temperature before continuing.)
  3. Get all your fixings ready. Sprinkle the tops of the burgers with about half the buttermilk mixture; spread it as evenly as possible all the way to the edges. Some will fall off and that’s okay.When the grill is ready use a spatula to flip the patties buttermilk-size down onto the grates directly over the fire. Reduce the heat to medium low. Sprinkle the remaining buttermilk mixture over top of the burgers. The flames may flare a bit but should end quickly; if not, lower the heat even more.
  4. Cover the grill and cook until the burgers form a crust on the bottom and release easily from the grates, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the patty. It’s okay to peek to check charring; adjust the heat accordingly.
  5. Turn the burgers and cook the other side the same way, another 5 to 10 minutes. To check for doneness, nick the center with a small knife and peek. (Or use a thermometer if the patties are thick enough. With more experience you’ll be able to press on them and judge their firmness.) Serve right away on buns or rolls, dressed however you like best.

—Recipe developed by The Bittman Project for Bob’s Red Mill

Recipe variations

Buttermilk-Crusted Stovetop Burgers

Skip Step 1. In Step 3, when you’re ready to cook the burgers, put a large skillet or grill pan over medium heat. When it’s hot, put the patties in the pan, buttermilk powder side down. (Work in 2 batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan.) From there, follow the cooking directions and cues in the main recipe, only leave the pan uncovered. If any extra buttermilk powder is darkening in the bottom of the pan, scrape it over to the side or remove it.

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