2pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into chunks
Salt and pepper
4 carrots, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
5 garlic cloves, smashed
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 fresh rosemary sprig
2 bay leaves
2cups dry red wine
One 14-ounce can whole tomatoes
9cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed but left whole
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1cup heavy cream
2cups polenta (medium-grind cornmeal; not instant)
1cup milk
1cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 4 ounces)
2 oranges
10ounces arugula, rinsed and dried
1cup green olives, pitted and chopped
Instructions
Put 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is crisp and has rendered most of its fat, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel–lined plate. Add some of the pork (taking care not to crowd the pan), and turn the heat up to medium-high. Cook, turning the cubes as they brown and sprinkling them with salt and pepper, until the meat is browned on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining pork.
Lower the heat to medium and add the carrots, onion, garlic, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and let it bubble for a minute, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the tomatoes and return the pork to the pot. It should be almost submerged in liquid; if not, add a little water.
Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently but steadily and cover. Cook, stirring once or twice for about an hour, then add the pancetta. Stir again, cover, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally and adding a little more liquid if the mixture seems dry, until the pork is fork-tender and almost falling apart. Depending on the fattiness of the meat, the stew could be done in as little as another 30 or as long as 90 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then keep warm. (Or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days before reheating.)
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 375°F. Warm the stock over medium heat until steaming. Cut the trimmed fennel bulbs into 1/2-inch-thick slices, keeping the root intact. Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Put the fennel slices in the pan in a single layer, working in batches if necessary, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until golden and partially tender, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Dot with 3 tablespoons butter and pour in the cream. Transfer to the oven and cook until the fennel is tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning; keep warm.
Meanwhile, put the polenta in a large pot with 2 cups stock and whisk into a smooth slurry. Set over medium-high heat and add a large pinch of salt. Cook, whisking frequently, until the mixture boils, then whisk in the milk and adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, whisking and adding more warm stock a little at a time to prevent lumps and keep the mixture fairly loose. It will take another 5 to 7 cups of stock before the polenta is ready. It should be creamy but still loose, with just a little chew, and it will pull away from the sides of the pan as you stir, 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the polenta. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter and the Parmesan; taste, adjust the seasoning, and keep warm.
Slice off about 1/4 inch from each end of the oranges so you can stand them on the cutting board. Use a very sharp knife to cut as close to the flesh as possible, removing the skin and bitter white pith in long strips. Cut the oranges crosswise to make “wheels.” When you are ready to serve, mix the oranges with the arugula, olives, 4 tablespoons olive oil, and plenty of salt and pepper; toss to combine, taste, and adjust the seasoning.
Make sure all your components except the arugula salad are hot. Serve all the ingredients family style or if you want, take the traditional Italian approach: Call everyone to the table. Spread the hot polenta on a large marble slab, the largest cutting board you have, or a giant platter or shallow bowl set in the middle of your table. Cover one third of the polenta with some ragu, one-third with fennel, and one-third with salad. Then dig in.