1 large or 2 small waxy potatoes (like red or other thin-skinned variety)
1cups white basmati rice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Large pinch saffron
1cup whole-milk yogurt
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
Instructions
Put the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chicken, skin side down, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook undisturbed until it releases easily from the pan, 3 to 5 minutes. Repeat seasoning and browning the chicken on the other side, another 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the chicken and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat.
Add the onion, sprinkle with salt, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 10 to 15 minutes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot as they loosen. Add 3 teaspoons garlic and the cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, and lots of black pepper and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the stock, and stir again. Return the chicken to the pot, adjust the heat to a steady, gentle bubble, and cover.
Cook for 10 minutes, turn the chicken, and add the dates and apricots, and more liquid if necessary to keep the chicken partially submerged. Continue to cook, turning occasionally and checking the liquid, until the thighs are tender enough to pierce easily with a fork and the meat is nearly falling from the bone, 30 to 40 minutes. (At this point, you can refrigerate them in the braising liquid for a day or so and then reheat.) Remove the chicken from the pot, and when cool enough to handle, remove the skin and shred the meat. Strain the braising liquid. Put the meat in a bowl and add just enough of the cooking liquid to keep the fruit mixture moist without pooling. Rinse and dry the pot.
Peel the potato(es) and cut crosswise into thin slices. Fill the pot with water and a big pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Stir in the rice and return to a boil, then lower the heat so the water bubbles steadily. Cook undisturbed, until the rice is partially done but still retains some bite; start checking after 5 minutes. Drain the rice and let sit; wipe out the pot.
Melt the butter in the same pot over low heat, stir in the saffron, remove from the heat and let the spice steep in the fat for about 5 minutes. Add 1/4 cup water to the pot, then carefully arrange the potato slices in the bottom of the pot in a single layer (it’s okay if they overlap). Add half the rice, then the chicken, and top with the remaining rice. Wrap a clean kitchen towel around the lid of the pot so that the corners are tied together on top and don’t fall anywhere near the flame; cover the pot. Turn the heat to medium-high. When you hear the water spattering—about 5 minutes—turn the heat down to very low. Cook, completely undisturbed, until the potatoes start to smell toasty—you will know—but not burned, 40 to 50 minutes. If you don’t smell anything after 1 hour, turn the heat up to high until you do, no more than 3 minutes; keep your nose and ear to the pot. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, for another 5 minutes.
While the pilaf cooks, whisk together the yogurt, remaining teaspoon garlic, the mint, parsley, and lime zest and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Warm the braising liquid on the stovetop, skimming any fat off the top.
Uncover the pilaf, cover the top with a large shallow bowl, and invert the pot to release the rice. If the potatoes don’t come out intact, use a spatula to scrape the pieces out of the pan and put the pieces on top of the rice. Serve hot, passing the minty yogurt and braising liquid at the table.