The Most Versatile Food of All Time

Published March 6, 2023

Soft-boiled, hard-boiled, fried, in a hole, scrambled, yellow, white, green

Photo: Kate Bittman

Have you ever had a soft-boiled egg?! I have, but not many, and I certainly never appreciated them enough before. But I got into a conversation with my friend Andrea after I wrote about salads, and we talked about what toppings we liked, and she brought up the soft-boiled egg, and I tried it, and my mind was blown. The egg pictured above was cooked in gently boiling water for six minutes, run under cold water, peeled, and chopped onto my salad, where the yolk ran just enough onto the greens to give it all a luxe feel. (By the way, the bowl is Mark’s and my new favorite.)

It’s hard to think of a food that’s more versatile than the egg — and I’d venture to say that almost everyone has some specific memory around an egg dish. It’s delicious in its simplest forms (hard boiled or fried–even soft-boiled–with nothing but salt and maybe pepper), and it’s filling — a super satisfying snack when you need a quick fix.

When I was a kid, my dad made us ‘egg in the holes’ all the time, using a vitamin bottle top to punch out that bread circle that always turned out so buttery and crisp — my favorite part. I always saved it for last, using it to sop up every last bit of the yolk left on my plate.

Photo: Aya Brackett

The recent egg shortage and subsequent rise in egg prices is upsetting for many reasons. I’m not going to get into it because a) as with many world issues, I really only understand the basics; and b) you can read about it pretty much anywhere else. But I wanted to acknowledge it because I’m sure at least some of you are buying and eating eggs differently.

The fact remains, though: Eggs are a wonder. So all of today’s options let the egg do its thing, but — with sensitivity to the current situation — don’t require a ton of eggs per person. You can have your egg and eat it, too!

This week’s lineup was created out of how inspired I was by Mark’s and my conversation with Toya Boudy on Food a couple of weeks ago. Toya’s cookbook, Cooking for the Culture, is full of things I want to make, but Eggs & Rice, which we talked about with her, was the first. I made a pan last week and it was eaten very, very fast — it’s comforting in both its simplicity and flavor.

I’m also including The Vegetarian Eggs Benedict — that is, Eggs Florentine, which we actually prefer over its meaty counterpart — plus a vegan omelet that will easily become a staple, and Mark’s Fried Eggs Rarebit, which I was only introduced to a couple years ago and is a wonderful way to make dinner without having to really cook.

If you make any of these, let us know. And if you have egg dishes that are important to you, we’d love to hear about those, too — you know where the comments are.


Toya Boudy’s Eggs & Rice

Photo: Kate Bittman

I saw this recipe in Cooking for the Culture and knew immediately that I had to make it. It comes together so fast, and it’s so warming and delicious. (Also: I love the sauté pan pictured above. I got it a few weeks ago and it’s become my go-to.)


Photo: Zach DeSart and Burcu Avsar

Eggs Florentine

You can think of this as vegetarian Eggs Benedict, but I think it’s better. And any breakfast that incorporates greens is a plus.


Vegan Omelet

Even if you don’t eat eggs, you might crave an omelet. Use this recipe as a template for a “regular” omelet, and fill it with any ingredients you like — we give you a bunch of suggestions.


Fried Eggs Rarebit

I was introduced to Mark’s Fried Eggs Rarebit a few years ago, and I have to say: It’s a fantastic way to make dinner without having to really cook.


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