Food with Mark Bittman: Ted Genoways

How José Cuervo marked a turning point in Mexico’s history.

Published June 18, 2025

Mary Anne Andrei

This week, we’re doing something that we’ve done just once or twice in the past—we’re having someone on for the second time, and not long after we had him on the first time. Why, you might ask? Because that person, Ted Genoways, has just written the very first biography of José Cuervo, one of the most famous names in Mexican history. What perhaps added to his fame is that Cuervo famously disappeared, which awarded him an aura of mystery—and made him a trickier person to profile.

Ted’s biography is called Tequila Wars: Jose Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico, and it’s interesting and comprehensive, and, if you know Ted at all, extremely well-written. (We published an excerpt from it here last month.) 

Ted Genoways, if you weren’t able to listen to our first interview with him, which aired in April, is a senior editor at the Food & Environment Reporting Network. His typical beat is the meatpacking industry, which is what we talked about previously; but he took a break from that to dive deep into tequila.

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