I started 2018 with a starter. That January Mark asked if I wanted to bake long-distance together and toss around notes. The idea was to work on a new whole grain sourdough he was messing with and adapt it to the Bittman/Lahey No-Knead Bread method.
Fun side hustle, I thought. A little distraction from our usual cookbook routine. We’d nibble buttered toast during phone calls, snap some photos, and have a few laughs. Then he’d keep making bread as he’s always done, and I’d move on to vegan enchiladas or whatever else was on our recipe development list.
Seven years later, after a lockdown and a cookbook, I just celebrated my 500th whole-grain sourdough bake.
Only once that bubbling starter sucked me in it wouldn’t let go; whole grain baking became a regular part of my kitchen life. Now seven years later, after a lockdown and a cookbook, I just celebrated my 500th whole-grain sourdough bake. Like a maniac, I’ve kept track of every single one. And since this milestone coincided with the two-year anniversary of Bittman Bread, we thought a recap, inviting everyone to join Mark’s and my ongoing baking-with-whole-grains conversation — complete with behind-the-scenes tips and fails, new recipe ideas, and highlights from the journey — might inspire others.
Let’s get to those highlights:
Start your engines
Since writing the book, Mark developed an alternative, easier way to make starter—one that skips the first white-flour, yeasted loaf.
Keep the love (and the starter) alive
A year into our journey, I spent a lot of time away from home taking care of my ailing mom, Anna Rae. Back at home I ended up processing grief by reviving my long-neglected starter. This story describes how to do both.
Watch how Mark folds the dough
No preview or spoilers. Just watch the video.
Learn from each other
“Breadbaking is a life-long experiment,” says Mark. We’ve fielded questions from readers over the last two years and every bake continues our education. Here’s a rundown of what we’ve learned since the book came out. The piece includes my Yule Boule, Galette Bretton, and “Bumplings” (as if stuffed buns and dumplings had a baby). While you’re there, be sure to check out the links to Holly’s Bittman Bread spins: a gorgeous gardenscape focaccia, Black Sesame Sticky Buns, and Whole Lemon Cake.
Make a giant pancake
The most accessible recipe in Bittman Bread is a sourdough adaptation of our beloved socca. Mark’s tribute and this story from one of the times he and I cooked together include a couple different approaches. And the formula in the book — which includes variations for cornmeal, brown rice flour and kimchi, and buckwheat — is easy to remember: Combine 1 part starter, 2 parts whole grain flour, and 3 parts water in a bowl and let it sit for several hours. Then heat a 12-inch skillet with 50 grams olive or neutral oil (about 3 tablespoons) at 450°F until the oil shimmers, pour in the batter, and bake until browned (about 30 minutes). Slip onto a cutting board or eat from the pan!
Venture off-recipe
Mark gives you permission and encouragement right here. My starter spills the yeast on what it’s been up to (including King Cake) here. And ICYMI, more behind-the-scenes ideas are linked above in “Learn From Each Other.”
Pro rye? Give this a try.
We know Mark gravitates toward rye, heavy on the seeds. But pushing the ratio of rye-to-whole-wheat flour can result in a hard-to-handle dough and a gummy loaf. Here’s his newest spin on the ryes in the book: Jumpstarter with 50g rye, 50g whole wheat, 100g starter, and 100g water. After 6 to 8 hours, make dough with 50g rye, 150g whole wheat, 15g vital wheat gluten flour, 8g salt, and 75g mixed seeds. Refrigerate about 6 hours. Proceed with the folds as usual, plus a good 45 minutes in the pot before baking. “It was very stiff and could probably have used more water,” he said in one of our usual text notes. “And I baked the loaf to 210°F to see what interior might be like with longer time. Next time I’d substitute something else for some of the poppy seeds but this loaf was pretty awesome.”
Top off your sandwich loaf
I make “Kerri’s Sandwich Loaf” from page 117 every five days. On a lark a few months back, I added 25g extra flour to the dough in Step 2 – without any other changes. Presto: the coveted big dome poofs above the top of the pan every time.
Embrace the fails
There’s imperfection in all living things. The more you bake the fewer there will be. That’s one of my early loaves on the left; Mark’s crack at extra cracked wheat on the right. No big deal. I can testify we ate them anyway – or made them into crumbs or croutons.
Remember the focaccia!
Really. It’s so damn good.
Celebrate 500 bakes with me
I made the coconut variation of the Chocolate Chunk Torte to mark the big milestone, gilding the lily by topping with toasted coconut. It’s fantastic for breakfast and freezes super well.
Coconut Milk Torte
Naturally fermented cake is a naturally not-too-sweet treat. The main recipe in Bittman Bread is studded with chopped chocolate. The fruit versions — and this coconut variation — make a showstopping brunch centerpiece. Just time it so you begin the jumpstarter the evening beforehand. For dessert after dinner, pull things together in the morning. And if you want to serve the cake on a plate instead of right out of the pan, use a springform pan.
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