Adam Ried

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Is Cabbage Really the Best of All Vegetables?

The cruciferous spotlight has previously been reserved for cabbage’s glory-hogging cousins — svelte and sexy ​Brussels sprouts​, ​cauliflower that can be roasted whole​ and served as a star, ​broccoli​ that is, like the movie, everything everywhere all at once, and ​Savoy​ and ​Napa​, with their interesting textures and shapes. And that doesn’t even touch on the Asian branch of the family, like ​Bok Choy​ and ​Tatsoi​. Plain green cabbage, however, “appeals to a deeper, more primal corner of my psyche than any of its kin,” Adam Ried writes.

Creamy Coleslaw with Pineapple and Sweet Onion

The amounts of brown sugar (in the dressing) and pineapple in the slaw are modest, meant to provide a light sweetness without dominating the dish.

Cabbage Cacio e Pepe

When presented with a classic pasta cacio e pepe, I find it impossible to limit myself to the cruelly modest quantity that constitutes a standard portion in the eyes of the nutritionistas. While this cabbage version is, in fact, a different beast, with seasonings purloined from the pasta it echoes the original in a satisfying way, and I can eat it to my heart’s content without overdoing the simple carbs. That’s my kind of trade-off.

Creamy-or-Not Cabbage and Noodles

Here we have no-nonsense comfort food from countries throughout Central and Eastern Europe, many of which have their own twists on it. For instance, paprika shows up often, as does caraway, which I love.

Bastardized Korean-Style Street Toast

As I understand it, in Korea the standard operating procedure for this sandwich is to use soft white bread, a fair amount of sugar, and hefty doses of both ketchup and mayo. I take liberties with all those elements, hence “bastardized.” In fact, so long as cabbage and an allium are present, I often take yet more liberties, such as switching between onion and shallot (based on which is within easier reach), adding julienned red bell pepper and/or jalapeño (or substituting it for the carrot), and ditching the meat and/or cheese and the condiments. The moral of the story is that I consider the formula flexible and easy to bend to individual preference and ingredient availability.

Two ingredient tips, if I may: First, don’t use thin-sliced bread for this—it won’t hold up against the moisture in the vegetables. Second, if you opt for the cheese, go with a good melter like a young cheddar, Monterey or pepper jack, Gouda, or Fontina.

Once you’ve peeled the carrot, a quick and easy way to prep it is to simply keep using the peeler, rotating the carrot as you work, to create thin strips.

A wide, thin spatula (nonstick-friendly, if necessary) is the tool of choice for shaping and flipping the cabbage patty as it cooks.

All these options and notes might make this sound finicky, but it’s not. Make your choices and then make the sandwich to see how quickly and easily it goes.

Do You Have a Sweet Tooth?

The need for sweet pounces at night, and no simple piece of fresh fruit beats it back (though grapes and pineapple stand the strongest chance). Then I upped the ante by grinding dried fruit in the food processor, adding complimentary flavors, and rolling them into “truffles.” These have passed the test of time.

Coconut-Apricot Truffles

These are adapted from The World’s 60 Best Lunches, Period, edited by Antoine Ross Trempe, Cardinal Publishers, 2012.

Spiced Almond-Apricot Truffles

Warming and sweet-tooth-satisfying.

Sesame-Lemon Fig Truffles

Though these truffles are gently lemony and sweet from the figs and vanilla, the tahini and sesame seeds push them ever-so-slightly in a savory direction.

Orange-Pecan Fig Truffles

The fig seeds give these a faint, though satisfying, crunch.