Mark Bittman

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Drumstick Cacciatore

If you’re old enough to associate this classic with the midcentury Italian craze or a dining hall at college, I urge you to revisit the quintessential tomato braise with these new spins. And those of you too young to know what it is, allow me to introduce you. Italians might even approve of Drumstick Cacciatore, which creates enough crust on the skin for good flavor and texture without bogging down the clock.

Polenta Party

I’ve never understood what all the complaining was about. So you’ve got to stir a little. Polenta Party is based on polenta alla spianatora—which translates to “polenta spread flat”; this is a fun, communal dinner great for crowds and anyone who doesn’t own a fancy tablecloth.

Duck Confit with Warm Spices

The French technique for food ”preserved in its own fat” traditionally is used for duck, goose, or other fatty meats. But confit has evolved to describe anything poached in fat. You’ll get hooked on Duck Confit with Warm Spices, and anything you cook with the resulting fat tastes amazing—especially potatoes.

Chicken Agrodolce

Take the concept of sweet-and-sour in a different direction, give it a sexy Italian name, and you know the recipes will play on intense but balanced contrasts. Tomatoes bring extra brightness to Chicken Agrodolce; this shortcut method leaves you with a generous amount of an unusual and amazing sauce. When tomatoes are ripe and in season, go with fresh—any kind—and figure 1 pound is about 1 1/2 cups chopped.

Tamarind Tempeh Kebabs

There’s no denying the universal appeal of crisp grilled food on a stick. The Tamarind and Tempeh meld in meatless kebabs like they were born together.

Prepared tamarind is needlessly difficult to source. What you want is a product that is nearly pure tamarind (most have preservatives, which is unavoidable) and not any sort of prepared chutney, candy, or other food. If you buy the dried, shelf-stable, pressed concentrated block, which is almost like fruit leather, hydrate it in a little hot water, then strain and measure.

Vegetable Paella

Like sushi, the national dish of Spain is also supposed to be about rice, though what goes on top is going to flavor the kernels mightily. I love the short-grain brown rice in this Vegetable Paella: nice bite and deep nutty taste, soaks up the juices in the pan like a sponge, then separates into individual grains during the resting time.

Vegetable Masala with Turmeric Tomato Sauce

“Curry” is an inauthentic catchall for the richly nuanced food of India. This Vegan recipe might not be quite what you expect from curry; brace yourself for an epiphany.

Cheese Enchiladas

The texture of enchiladas is incredible; getting there can be a bit of a journey. Unless you choose the road to Cheese Enchiladas, which seems like utter heresy until you pull the pan out of the oven.

Coq Au Vin with Shiitakes

Braising chicken (or anything else) in wine has a way of exponentially developing big flavor. My Coq Au Vin with Shiitakes updates the classic chicken stew. It will take an afternoon to make, but has the depth of a dish that took much longer.

Homemade Udon with Glazed Short Ribs

The thick, wonderfully chewy wheat noodles of Japan are sold dried and increasingly fresh or frozen. You can make them yourself—the amazingly effective kneading method involves using your body weight and feet!—and top them with tender braised short ribs.

Green Fish Curry

Named for the ingredient that defines the dish—curry paste—which is different from Indian curries. Not all Thai curries include coconut milk, but I’m partial to the versions that do. The quality of prepared curry pastes varies widely, so I always choose to make my own, even in a pinch. And, considering the food processor is the only other dirty piece of equipment besides the pot, Green Fish Curry comes together remarkably fast.

Tofu Curry, Massaman Style

Named for the ingredient that defines the dish—curry paste—which is different from Indian curries. Not all Thai curries include coconut milk, but I’m partial to the versions that do. The quality of prepared curry pastes varies widely, so I always choose to make my own, even in a pinch. Half of the long ingredient list in the recipe for Tofu Curry, Massaman Style, is for the seasoning paste, so don’t be discouraged.

Chicken Mark Nuggets (from How to Cook Everything Kids)

You won’t believe how easy it is to make crispy tidbits of chicken in the oven. And they’re waayyyy better than what you get at a drive-up window. If you double this recipe, you’ll have enough for a lot of hungry people, or make enough to freeze the leftovers in an airtight container to heat later in the microwave.

Warm-Pickled Cauliflower Salad with Roasted Red Peppers

Simmering cauliflower in a vinegar brine is essentially a quick pickling technique. The idea is to cook the vegetable a little less than you ultimately want it, so it retains plenty of crunch. Then as a time-saving, underrated treat, serve the salad still warm. Or make it up to a day ahead and serve it ice cold. For even more substance, serve the cauliflower draped with a couple thin slices of prosciutto and pass breadsticks at the table.

Stewed Lamb Moussaka

There are countless versions of this lasagna-like Greek eggplant dish, but I’m not crazy about the kind with the custard on top. Stewed Lamb Moussaka takes a different tack with a creamy cheese sauce, and is the perfect party food since you can assemble and then refrigerate for up to two days.

Salt-Baked Whole Fish with Aioli

The classic technique of wrapping food and a little liquid in a package—called en papillote—is still valuable, especially with some modern tweaks. Salt-Baked Whole Fish with Aioli is another classic cooking-under-wraps preparation, only instead of seasoning the fish, I aggressively season the crust.

Pork Cassoulet with Seared Duck Breast

One of my favorite bean dishes, which I make a million ways. Flageolets—slightly green immature kidney beans—are just as fabulous as traditional Tarbes in the fairly traditional All Out recipe. The goal is to let the beans cook until they start to break apart, which helps thicken the stew. And don’t skimp on the fat.

All-Out Bouillabaisse

What started as a way for French fishermen to use less desirable seafood evolved into an upmarket restaurant dish. Let’s bring it back home.

Machamanteles

The quick answer: Mole is a generic term for a style of rich, complex Mexican sauces and the dishes made with them. Most are characterized by a long list of ingredients. Sometimes they contain chocolate, but they would never be confused with dessert. Manchamanteles means “one who stains
tablecloths” and it contains a laundry list (get it?) of ingredients that come together in a fruity, not too dark mole. You’ll want a big stack of tortillas with them.

Coconut Chicken Adobo

There are almost as many variations of Filipino Adobo as home cooks. The defining characteristic is seasoned vinegar; the rest is up for debate. To get the true Coconut Chicken Adobo experience, it’s worth tracking down a few special ingredients, but even with the suggested substitutions it’s pretty darn great. A Filipino brand of soy sauce is helpful to get the right sodium level.