Clarissa Dickson-Wright, the esteemed culinary scholar who became famous as half of the Two Fat Ladies team of TV cooks, cited 17th-century English cook Robert May as one of the first to codify preparing salmon with slices of orange. Layering it under and over the fish produces sweet, soft, juicy flesh, with a pleasant warm acidity and faint but welcome bitter note.
Be sure to harvest the zest before you peel the oranges. In this version, I make up for the missing salt with a few extra flavor bombs: fresh ginger for a little punch, nutmeg for its mysterious background bolstering effect, shallot for its sharp bite, toasted sesame seeds for a roasty crunch, and a ton of cilantro for pizzaz. If you don’t love cilantro, (you’re not alone), chop up some chives instead, or tarragon, or mint, or whatever. It’s your dinner.
This recipe is from Tucker Shaw’s piece, “Turns Out Not Eating Salt Is Not the End of the World.”