Food with Mark Bittman: Ari Kolender

A seafood master.

Published June 11, 2025

Photo courtesy Ari Kolender

My dad’s very first book, published in 1994, was Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking. He’s considered updating it many times, but never has. So when we found out about Ari Kolender’s new book, How to Cook the Finest Things in the Sea, and really got to take a look at it, my dad was like, “oh yeah. I haven’t had that convo in a while. Let’s do it.”

Ari Kolender is well-known for his Los Angeles restaurants, Found Oyster and Queen’s Raw Bar & Grill, so is a bit of a seafood master, but he didn’t start out that way; like many of us, he was scared by the idea of buying and cooking seafood, and used shrimp as a gateway drug.

And now, he’s so schooled in fish—see what I did there—that he wrote this all things seafood book. How to Cook the Finest Things in the Sea is a simple and straightforward guide that’s a must for anyone new to fish, or anyone who’s looking for some bright, creative new things to do with fish—the recipes are wonderful, and I’m very happy to have them by my side this summer when we’re at the beach and have excellent fresh seafood options. You can find Ari’s recipe for Poached Leeks with Gribiche and Smoked Trout Roe here, and his recipe for Five-Layer Crab Dip, here.

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