Mark Bittman

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Our Amazing Method for “Reverse-Risotto”

Farro is better than pasta in salads, just as creamy as rice in risotto, and lighter than meat in soups. Here’s how to make easy, delicious, and summery whole grains a reality, using our tried-and-true technique.

Skillet Focaccia with Grapes

Since I first wrote about baker and cookbook author Jim Lahey’s no- knead bread in 2006, I’ve experimented with all sorts of different variables. From replacing some or all of the flour with whole wheat or rye to adding yeast to speed up the process, the recipe is so versatile that it’s become my go-to bread. That’s how I discovered that it makes an amazing focaccia for the grill. And the timing is perfect: The dough is made well in advance. Then you grill- bake it as you just start to prepare the rest of the meal—it will be ready and still warm by the time dinner comes off the grill. I like this bread with a little whole wheat flour, but using only all- purpose flour instead gives you a slightly puffier focaccia.

Japanese-Style Summertime Pasta Salad (Hiyashi Chūka)

A Japanese summertime staple — flexible like a chef’s salad, only based on noodles and dressed with a pleasantly sweet, brothy dressing that pulls everything together. Ramen noodles are traditional here; you can also substitute soba, somen, or even spaghetti as long as you adjust the cooking time. I serve this for guests—it’s fun to set up a buffet table—or make it as a way to clean out the fridge or gorge on something ripe and in season. (See the list that follows for a start with possible toppings.)

Pasta Salad with Beans and Herbs

Generally, the quantities in the recipes in Kitchen Express are designed for three or four people. But the specifications are loose enough so that it won’t take much to tweak them for fewer or more servings to make a meal more substantial, or plan ahead for leftovers. Serve this dish as a room-temperature salad, or warm as a main course.

Bowties with Arugula, Olives, Bulgur, and Fresh Tomato Wedges

Think of this as a Greek pasta salad; it’s bright and light and has the perfect mix of Mediterranean flavors. After you finish cooking, let it sit for a bit before serving so that the bulgur and bowties soak up the flavors and the arugula wilts a little; it works equally well served warm or at room temperature. I cook the bulgur with the pasta here, which makes things easier, but it means you must use a strainer, not a colander, to drain the water. If you don’t
have one, cook the bulgur separately. And for an earthier spin, try doubling the bulgur and reducing the quantity of pasta.

Figs with Walnuts and Honey

Yet another dessert to prep ahead: Have the figs stuffed and ready to go before guests arrive.

Lemony Blueberry Cornmeal Cake

In 10 minutes, you can be on your way to the perfect ending to a summer meal. Just put this cake on to grill- bake when you sit down to eat—or bake it before you put your entrée on the grill— and it will be cooled by the time you’re ready for dessert. Everything about it is vibrant, and the berries stain the yellow cake violet.

Cherry Clafoutis

This custardy dessert (pronounced kla- FOO- tee), similar to a German pancake, is an excellent way to enjoy all sorts of fruit in season. As with the cakes, you’ll need a flameproof skillet, like cast iron or stainless steel; you can’t use the traditional ceramic baking dish. For advance prep, have the fruit in the pan and the batter in the refrigerator, mixed up and ready to go.

Watermelon with Honey and Lime

Here’s an unexpected and refreshing sweet way to end a meal.

Food with Mark Bittman: David A. Kessler, MD

The author and former commissioner of the US Food and Drug Administration talks to Mark about his new book, Diet, Drugs, and Dopamine: The New Science of Achieving a Healthy Weight; why self-control isn’t enough when it comes to losing—and keeping off—weight; the problem with ‘eat less, exercise more”; and his own personal weight loss journey.

Grill-Roasted Duck with Hoisin Dipping Sauce

Whole duck roasted on the grill is a revelation; when done correctly, the meat—even the breast—has the rich, silken texture of confit. Forget about medium-rare; this is a different kind of experience. To make this happen, the fire configuration and placement of the duck on the grill are key. You want the duck flanked on both sides by the fire, if possible; this will yield even cooking.

Apple Butter

This is a no-work recipe. You’ll have a thick apple butter to spread on the morning’s toast, with a hint of smokiness and nary a pot to wash in sight. Throw the apples on a dying charcoal fire and put the lid back on the grill, or adjust the heat on a gas grill if necessary. You can also make this with pears or a mix of pears and apples.

Strawberry Sorbet

You can adapt this recipe for any type of soft, ripe fruit—just be sure to peel, chop, and/or pit the fruit as needed. For berries, strain out the seeds for a smoother sorbet. Although Chinese five-spice powder enhances the flavor of berries, you can experiment with other fruit and spice combinations, like blueberries with cardamom or bananas with cloves.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Gratin “Brûlée”

This dessert is a cross between a gratin, a crisp, and a clafoutis, the French dessert of fruit baked in pancake-like batter. Here, I go for the fresh taste of fruit and whipped custard made with heavy cream, along with a lightly sweet and crunchy nut topping. As long as you have 1 1/2 pounds fruit total, substitute whatever you like: Plums, peaches, sour cherries, or blueberries are particularly nice.

Tea with Jam

Tea is usually served black in Russia, with preserves. You can add milk or cream if you like. Also completely optional, but not inappropriate, is a bit of vodka, brandy, or rum.

Carrots with Chipotle “Mayo”

Talk about a stellar dip. The first time I made this it sparked a debate about whether it was “real” mayonnaise. But vegan “mayo”—or vegannaise, as it’s usually called—is a creamy, vibrant staple you will want to have on hand to spruce up vegetables, use as a springboard for a creamy salad dressing, or spread on a sandwich. Here I spin that formula into a spicy and colorful complement for sweet, crunchy carrots.

Gorpcorn

A combination of two of my favorite treats: popcorn and gorp. Simple whole grains, legumes, and fruits, tossed together to become a nutritious, addictive, and practically guilt-free snack.

Fruit Candy

Many packaged dried fruits are tossed in extra sugar and treated with preservatives, but you can avoid all that by oven-drying the fruit yourself. Though these “candies” are more calorie-dense than an equivalent weight of their raw counterparts—you are, after all, removing most of the water—they’ve still got all the fiber. And their intensity will satisfy even the most insistent sweet tooth.

Marky B’s Lunch for Two

Chopped salad​ is a staple, because it can include literally any vegetable that you can eat raw, and that is interesting. Taking the extra time to chop the greens and vegetables is always worth it, because dressing and ingredients become evenly distributed, and everything is much easier to eat. I rarely make salad any other way.

Fruit Jam

You’ll be hard-pressed to come up with a reason not to make your own jam with a method as simple as this.