Just so you know that this book isn’t all about the distant past, I’ll mention that not long ago I was watching the excellent series Fleabag with Lawrence. It was season two, where Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s character falls for an unattainable priest. As we binged the series, I binged on tuna-stuffed jalapeños.

This is an Arizonan thing — definitely not a recipe from Grandpa Fred’s day — and it’s been a Ronstadt family appetizer for years. I learned about them from my sister-in-law Jackie, who married my brother Peter. “What is this gringo food?” I asked her. I was just shocked. I thought, “People are really doing this?” And then I ate one and I went, “Okay, I’m eating up the whole plate.”

We call them tunapeños. I told Lawrence that the tuna you get in cans today is no match for the tuna of my childhood—the flavor is insipid, somehow—but he wanted to try anyway. I will admit that his was pretty good, with mayo, chopped onion, and pickles. I ate most of them myself. – Linda Ronstadt