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Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Knives

How many do you need? Does it matter if you get a good one or…

'We're Living in the Golden Age of Pizza,' says Wilco's Jeff Tweedy

And more conversations on music and food with Mark Bittman

What Kind of Water Do You Drink?

Tap, filtered, bottled, flavored, with or without bubbles — we talk about what we’re drinking…

8 Fun Dishes for the Grill

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Samantha Irby Tuna Noodle Casserole

Samantha Irby’s Tuna Noodle Casserole

The thing about being black and growing up in the Midwest is that not only do you eat all the stereotypical black foods — your collards, your banana pudding, your cornbread, your catfish — but you also are well-versed in the various delicacies of flyover country — the goulashes, the hot dishes, the pasties, the brats — that no one expects you to know about, let alone eat.

Neither of my parents was from the Midwest, but they moved early and assimilated quickly, raising my sisters and me on a steady diet of hash brown casserole, corn pudding, shepherd’s pie, and revolting layered salads.

I don’t know the actual origin of tuna casserole and I refuse to look it up, so I’m just gonna go ahead and assume it was conceived of by a tired mom named Nancy or Gwen who loved tuna and mushrooms and peas and was like, “Wait, should I throw these all together in a dish and serve it to my ungrateful family?” and thus the tastiest, most comforting dish ever conceived was born. Here is how I, a true Illinoisan, make mine. — Samantha Irby

Lupini Beans with Eggs and Croutons

This dish normally calls for fresh fava beans, which are a delicious springtime treat, with a verdant flavor that makes the shucking and peeling worth the effort. Here, however, we used Brami’s Italian snacking lupini beans — lupini beans have a reputation for being tricky to prepare (more on that another time!), but Brami’s takes the work out of it, so this is a really nice substitution. Other beans you can use: Just about any fresh or frozen bean, like lima, edamame, black-eyed peas, or cranberry, will be delicious.

One-Pot Pasta with Lemony Zucchini

While it’s not the most beloved vegetable, zucchini has a lot going for it. It’s firm enough to stand up to all cooking methods, tender enough to eat raw, quick-cooking, and amenable to all kinds of flavors.

14 Ways to Eat a Zucchini

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Shrimp and Macaroni Salad

One day, I wanted to make a seafood dish but realized I didn’t have enough shrimp. Instead of letting the shrimp go to waste, I cooked a few macaroni noodles, put the two together, and created a salad that my children loved. This dish comes together quickly, and you can serve it warm or cold with a green salad and hot biscuits. — Gullah Geechee Home Cooking

Fava Bean Salad with Pecorino

Fava Bean Salad with Pecorino

This recipe originally calls for mint, but I used watercress because I forgot to get mint at the store. You, too, can riff on this according to what herb, etcetera are available to you.

Pilsen Red Beans and Rice

In Mississippi, where my dad grew up, there’s a huge Mexican American population. And Chicago, where I grew up, boasts the third biggest Mexican community in the United States — much of it concentrated in the Pilsen neighborhood, where my mom took us for treats like elotes and paletas. So I’ve always seen how Southern and Mexican traditions can blend together seamlessly, especially when it comes to red beans and rice, a staple in both cultures.

This version starts with the Southern trinity of onion, bell pepper, and celery, which functions as a flavor builder just like Latin American sofrito (which adds tomatoes and cilantro to the equation). I also love folding in morsels of smoky dried chorizo and earthy spices like coriander and cumin. If you don’t have time to soak them, bring the beans to a boil in a pot of water. Boil for 5 minutes, cover, turn the heat off, let sit for an hour, and then drain and proceed with the recipe. – Adrienne Cheatham

More Plants. Less Meat. Let’s Discuss Why — and How

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Entirely Unrelated to Food

And incredibly importantPlease consider donating to one or both causes:Texas Elementary School Shooting Victims FundEverytown…

Is It Summer Yet?

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Soy Sauce Ranch

You owe it to yourself to D.I.Y. ranch dressing. You can use this formula for the proportions and easily vary the flavor: Instead of the soy sauce you can add fresh or dried dill, barbecue or Worcestershire sauce, vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice, a pinch of any ground dried chile, or a splash of your favorite hot sauce. Buttermilk powder—the crucial ingredient for thickness and tang—is usually found in the baking section of any big supermarket.

Smoked Tofu with Soy Sauce Ranch

There’s a big section on ways to rig grills for smoking in Mark’s book How to Grill Everything. But let’s break it down quickly: The best woods for light smoking in a gas or charcoal grill are apple or cherry, hickory, oak, or mesquite. Each will burn differently and lend a different flavor. You can use small chunks, chips, or twigs (Mark’s favorite). Despite what anyone tells you, do not soak them first. If using charcoal (or a live wood fire) you just throw the smoking wood right on the coals when they’re burned down and ready for cooking. With gas grills, the tidiest way is to put the wood in a small aluminum tray or specially made vented smokebox; remove the grate and put the rig on the flavor bar of the burners or burners that are turned on—but NOT the burners themselves, which will dangerously interfere with the flow of propane. When you add the food, add the wood and close the lid. Out of your view you will smell it first smolder and create smoke, then flame, then smoke again, then nothing. That’s when you add more if you want it.

Bacalaitos

My mother-in-law, Marcia, makes lots of bacalaitos, carimañolas, and other Panamanian fried treats every summer; I start thinking of them whenever I know she’s coming over with her cooler full of prepped ingredients. Once I discovered this extremely simple recipe though, I started filling my freezer with ziplock bags full of the batter and frying then up whenever I felt like it. Last summer, Marcia tried them and asked for a few bags of the batter. I think it was the first time she *left* with something in the cooler. — Mike Diago

The BruniBerry

The BruniBerry is a mildly-sweet tequila and strawberry cocktail that gets some heat (as much or as little as you want) from jalapeño.

Keep in mind that some jalapeño is hotter than others: It’s impossible to give a measure that will assure a specific degree of heat. So if you make the following recipe, go especially light on the jalapeño the first time around, and don’t overdo the ice in the shaker. — Frank Bruni

Join the Conversation: Ask Holly Haines Anything

We feel lucky to work with Holly Haines. We love her Instagram feed, her recipes,…

Khatteh Ande (Eggs in Tamarind Gravy)

Khatteh Ande (Eggs in Tamarind Gravy)

Eggs are monsoon food! When the rainy season began in Calcutta, we waited for the days of relentless rain, because what came after that was waterlogged streets. No school. No electricity for days as the power stations were underwater. Food rationing because the bazaars were closed. But eggs were delivered to us by the anda wallah (the egg man), who would cycle through streets that were knee-deep in water and bring us 24 eggs every other day.

At first, everyone got a whole egg, but if the rains continued, we would get only half an egg a day. The eggs were always prepared with great care and mealtimes were something of an occasion, with a lantern at the edge of the table, followed by a long night of storytelling by my father. — Asma Khan