Olives

Olives have been cultivated for millennia, and there are dozens of varieties and multiple curing methods in use today. Here are brief descriptions of the most common olives.

Black or Mission: Most often pitted and canned—and nearly tasteless. Picked when unripe or green, they’re cured in lye and then oxygenated, which turns them black.

Castelvetrano: These bright green olives can now be found pretty easily, which is great for us. They’re buttery, mellow, and a little sweet. They are grown in only one area of Sicily and are the most popular olive in Italy for snacking. They are picked when young and cured in a light brine.

Kalamata Widely available, salty, and sometimes mushy, though not unpleasantly so. Dark brown, purple, or black. Picked when ripe or almost ripe, then cured in saltwater or red wine vinegar. A decent standby.

Manzanilla or Spanish: Big, green, rather crisp, and often stuffed with pimientos or garlic cloves. Usually picked young; cured in lye, then brined for 6 months to a year. Can be delicious.

Moroccan: Also called oil- or dry-cured. Shriveled, shiny, and jet black. Picked ripe, then cured in oil or salt. These are an excellent staple, as they keep forever and can be plumped up by marinating in oil.

Nicoise: From Nice, France. Dark red or brown, small, with a slightly sour flavor. Picked ripe, then cured in saltwater. Flavorful, but a lot of pit for a small bite.

Picholine: From France. Green, almond-shaped, and crisp. Picked green, then cured in saltwater or lime and wood ashes, finally brined, sometimes with citric acid to give them a tart flavor. Delicious.

Preparing: Remove the pit by slicing the flesh lengthwise and digging it out with your fingers, or crush with the side of a knife and pick out the pit, or use a pitter. It’s also acceptable to leave the pit in; just be sure to warn your guests. If you like, you can reduce the saltiness by rinsing or soaking in water for 20 minutes or so or boiling for 30 seconds.

Other vegetables you can use: caper berries, capers