We get asked about salt all the time, and I get it: it can be a confusing subject. And so we’re particularly happy to be partnering with Jacobsen Salt Co. on this newsletter, but rest assured, as always, that I personally use Jacobsen salt and would promote it regardless. (Also, all their flake and kosher sea salt is harvested off the Oregon coast—the romance!)
Growing up, we had little pots of salt scattered around the kitchen and dining room. I thought that was normal. Food was meant to be seasoned well, and if you thought your meal needed salt, that salt was nearby and it was never considered an insult to make use of it.
Fast forward, years later: my dad maintains his use of salt pots; there are at least four of them in his kitchen and on his tables. One night not long ago, we were all visiting him and my sister mistakenly sprinkled sugar all over her salmon; she’d made the totally understandable mistake of thinking a pot could only contain salt.
Friends come over and compliment my cooking. I’m a good cook, I’ll give myself that, but I’m not extraordinary. I think my food is good because I know how to salt, and believe me or not, I also think that many people just aren’t used to salting their food as they cook. People tend to season at the end, and not as heavily as they need to; seasoning should be done in layers. Taste, taste, taste, as you go. Careful not to salt too much, lest your guests not enjoy salt as much as you do, but don’t let good ingredients go to waste with a lack of seasoning.
I only recently—well, within the last ten years or so—discovered flaky salt. I really do love it. I used Maldon to start, but then I found Jacobsen’s flake salt and now that’s all I use. The flakes are a bit smaller and softer, with a clean finish that’s more appealing to me. I have a little mint colored salt cellar filled with the Jacobsen flakes and it makes me happy just looking at it.
My dad has some flaky salt, but he mostly just uses regular kosher salt for everything and isn’t all that interested in going outside those parameters. I understand it, but I’m not the same way, and I’ve started to really get all the different types of salt out there—some is too fine for me, some is too coarse. And I like infused salts! Never would have thought I’d say that.
Assuming some of you are like me and might be interested in the various salt offerings out there and how to use them, I’m trying my hand at a brief explainer of the different types of salt that Jacobsen has to offer—along with some recipes that’ll put each type to good use.
This is what’s commonly known as a finishing salt. The flakes are big and crunchy, and the flavor is bright and briny, perfect for topping a finished steak or perfectly ripe tomato just before serving; or a fresh-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookie (honestly: I rarely eat anything without a sprinkle of this). Try it on these finished dishes:
- Any simply cooked vegetable, meat, or fish dish: Flaky salt has saved me on many an exhausted weeknight. Take whatever you have in the fridge, protein or vegetable, rub it with olive oil and the seasoning of your choice (just s&p is fine); roast, steam, broil, whatever your fancy; and right before serving, sprinkle it liberally with flaky salt. Dinner is served.
- Latkes! It’s just about that time of the year, and Mark’s recipe is a favorite of so many people I know—and the one that I personally make every year. Please don’t forget the sour cream and homemade applesauce
- Chocolate Caramel Mousse: This is a pretty sweet dessert, and the tang of the salt flakes would complement it beautifully, making it more of a salted caramel surprise.
Your everyday salt, excellent quality. On the coarser-grained side, perfect for just about anything: seasoning, brining, pickling, baking, everything. Use both throughout the cooking process and at the end.
- Gravlax
- Pasta with Winter Squash and Tomatoes
- Dandelion Chocolate’s Maybe the Very Best Chocolate Chip Cookies
Similar to the kosher sea salt; here, it’s just a matter of preference. Do you prefer cooking with a coarser or a finer-grained salt? (It’s important to note here that there’s “more” salt per pinch here given the finer grains.) Personally—and my dad is the same—I like coarser, but this fine sea salt is pretty great, too. Use it for any of the dishes you’d use kosher sea salt for, but just for fun, here are some more recipes for inspiration:
This is where things get a bit tricky, in my opinion. I was dubious when it came to the value of infused sea salts—Black Garlic! Rosemary! Lemon! Exactly where was I meant to begin, and just how much flavor do these salts offer?
I decided I wanted to start experimenting with infused salts just recently; my colleague, Holly, carries tins of them in her bag, and I had questions. She, like me, is a bit of a salt fiend and she doesn’t like asking for salt at a restaurant. (Who does?! And can we please just acknowledge that it’s time for every restaurant to just offer salt on the table? It’s not an insult to the chef!)
In general, infused salts won’t offer as much flavor as the spice that they’re infused with—a rosemary-infused salt won’t replace rosemary—but if you’re looking for a hint of flavor and a lot of ease, these salts are perfect. They’re all made with a base of either kosher or flake salt, and typically aren’t as salty as a straight-up salt (but be sure to taste anything you’re putting them in before you decide whether to add any additional “regular” salt). I’ve been liking them so much lately, notably on popcorn (any infused salt you can possibly find works here), eggs (see below), pasta (ditto), and pizza (depends on the type of pizza, but the rosemary salt would be excellent on a white pizza, or a focaccia)—and I’ve been experimenting with meats and vegetables, too. Here’s some inspiration to get you started:
- Black Garlic Salt on The Best Scrambled Eggs
- Black Pepper Salt on Cacio e Pepe
- Garlic Salt on Steamed Clams with Pasta
- Lemon Zest Salt on Baba Ghanoush
- Rosemary Salt in Garlicky White Bean Soup
And—that’s it. That’s the primer. I’ve been confused about salt for so long, and now I feel like I finally get it. You’re either thinking I’m a complete idiot or you’re there with me—both are fine! But I’d especially love to know how you end up using the different infused salts, so if you end up doing something awesome, or have any questions or comments, I am eagerly standing by. And, most importantly, HAVE FUN. Also, from all of us here at the Bittman Project, we hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving. We appreciate you more than you know!
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