Mark Bittman

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Potato and Horseradish Gratin

Potato and Horseradish Gratin

In this recipe that I learned from Jean-Georges Vongerichten, horseradish (which loses most of its potency when heated) gives classic potato gratin a gentle kick in the ass. The trick is finding fresh horseradish—and then peeling and slicing it (some people wear goggles, not a terrible idea).

9 (Slightly) Unexpected Thanksgiving Vegetable Sides

Photo: Getty Images

45-Minute Roast Turkey

This novel approach to roasting the Thanksgiving turkey allows you to cut the cooking time of the average turkey by about 75 percent while still presenting an attractive bird. Simply cut out the backbone (it’s not that difficult, but you can ask your butcher to do it for you) and spread the bird out flat before roasting.

Grill-Roasted Turkey with Smoky Cumin Salt

Grill-Roasted Turkey with Smoky Cumin Salt

Grilling a whole turkey for Thanksgiving is a wonderful break with tradition, with the added benefit of freeing up the oven. Trussing or stuffing the turkey will impede the airflow into the cavity and mess with the results so please do neither.

Sweet Potato Enchiladas with Red Mole

Sweet Potato Enchiladas with Red Mole

Mole is a group of classic slow-cooked Mexican sauces that get their rich, deep flavor from a long list of ingredients (including chocolate, nuts, seeds, herbs, chiles, and more). It isn’t time-consuming once everything is assembled, but I’d still consider this a special occasion dish.
Serve with sliced white or red radishes, sliced avocado, chopped fresh tomatoes or tomatillos, shredded lettuce, sour cream or crema, and/or toasted pumpkin seeds.

Panfried Cheese

Panfried Cheese

Some form of panfried cheese exists in every dairy-consuming cuisine, with the technique remaining much the same and the cheese changing.

No-Knead Bread

Since Jim Lahey and I first shared this innovation — the word “recipe” does not do the technique justice — in the New York Times in 2006, thousands of people have made it. For many, it was their first foray into bread baking, the one that showed that the process isn’t scary, although the end result is so good that experienced bakers too have tried and fallen in love with it.

This recipe came from Jim Lahey, the owner of Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City who created a way to make a spectacular loaf at home — with a crackling crust, open-holed crumb, light texture, and fantastic flavor — all with next to no hands-on time.

A wet dough and slow fermentation are the keys to success; almost by magic, they take the place of kneading. You’ll also notice the unique baking method — a heated covered pot — which creates essentially an oven within an oven to trap steam as the bread bakes. I’m not kidding when I say the results will blow your mind.

The only thing required is forethought. Ideally, you will start the dough about 24 hours before you plan to eat it; you can cut that to 12 and even 9 (see the first variation below), but you’ll be sacrificing some of the yeasty flavor and open crumb.

The Magical Yewande Komolafe

What to Cook This Week

Fastest Chicken Parm

Fastest Chicken Parm

This take on the classic couldn’t be easier: Instead of dredging and panfrying, just stack the ingredients in two stages on a baking sheet and broil. Done this way, the tomatoes get lightly roasted and the bread crumbs stay nice and crunchy. (For eggplant like this, see the variations.)

Pasta with Winter Squash and Tomatoes

Pasta with Winter Squash and Tomatoes

If we’re being truthful, this sweater weather recipe should really be called “winter squash and tomatoes with pasta,” as the 2 pounds of squash far outweigh the ½ pound of penne it calls for. I think that’s a good thing. Every single piece of pasta gets a generous coating of sauce, and there’s even some left behind after the pasta is long gone. That’s what bread is for.

Miso-Carrot Sauce with Ginger

This colorful dressing is the high-quality version of the goopy stuff they put on salads in many Japanese restaurants. I make it in the food processor, but if you prefer something smoother, just throw everything in a blender. Use this as a salad dressing, but also on warm or chilled chickpeas or edamame. Or toss a few spoonfuls into any plain cooked whole grain.

Granola with Whipped Coconut Cream

You can sweeten this granola with honey or maple syrup. Whatever you choose, the whipped coconut cream (vegan, but in a triumphant way; scroll down for the recipe) is a nice finishing touch.

Moby, Ted Danson, and Smarter Eating

Poached Eggs

Some technical notes: Ragged edges don’t bother me so I rarely bother to trim the edges with scissors, as some cooks do. I also no longer bother trying to rein in the whites with vinegar, since I can taste it.

Parsnip-Parmesan Gnocchi

A twist on the usual potato gnocchi, these are loaded with flavor. The Parmesan and extra flour help hold the dough together and make dense, rich gnocchi. Play up their richness even more by browning them in some butter in a pan.

Pastry for Savory Tarts

Pastry for Savory Tarts

An egg yolk makes this tart crust ultra-rich, almost like shortbread. Just as you can fill dessert tarts with almost any fruit imaginable, savory tarts are blank canvases for all sorts of vegetables.

In Defense of (Occasionally) Going to Restaurants

Northern Beans with Spanish Chorizo

Generally, the quantities in the recipes in Kitchen Express are designed for three or four people. But the specifications are loose enough so that it won’t take much to tweak them for fewer or more servings to make a meal more substantial, or plan ahead for leftovers. Serve this dish as a room-temperature salad, or warm as a main course. For this dish, you can use any cooked sausage you like here, but chorizo is special.

Spicy Escarole with Croutons and Eggs

Generally, the quantities in the recipes in Kitchen Express are designed for three or four people. But the specifications are loose enough so that it won’t take much to tweak them for fewer or more servings to make a meal more substantial, or plan ahead for leftovers. Serve this dish as a room-temperature salad, or warm as a main course. For this dish, you might add a bit of dried oregano, or garlic, or both to the croutons before toasting.