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Steamed Vegetables

By thinking of vegetables in three wildly general categories—greens, tender, and hard—all you need is this recipe and the variations that follow to prepare and cook virtually everything. The “greens” category includes the most delicate, like watercress, spinach, and arugula, as well as those that require longer cooking, like collards and escarole. What I call “tender” vegetables are those that are firm but pliable when raw: celery, green beans, asparagus, snow peas, sugar snap peas, broccoli, cauliflower, and mushrooms, and those that fit the description when you chop or slice them, like eggplant, zucchini, cabbage, onions, leeks, shallots, and fennel. Everything else is “hard”: root vegetables, tubers (like potatoes), and winter squashes. For each vegetable in a category, you control how long it takes by choosing how to cut or slice it. Even hard vegetables like beets and sweet potatoes will cook relatively quickly when they’re cut in pieces less than 1 inch thick; they’ll cook fastest if you grate them. Making peace with the peels—which are nutritious and can actually be delicious—saves you several minutes, prep time. Let’s get right to it.

Question Mark, Round Five

We love hearing from our community and can’t think of a better way to get a conversation going than by answering your questions (or, as we’re doing today, sharing your thoughtful comments). This week: how to make a carrot cake-like oatmeal—and should food be political?

Marinated Cannellini Salad & Spread Toasts with Fresh Oregano

If you’ve never dreamed of beans, I can’t relate, but that’s OK. This breakfast will keep them top of mind first thing in the morning, doing the trick and then some. A creamy spread of cannellini beans topped with a bright and smoky salad is the ultimate toast topper: To get you moving, to please your taste buds, to impress your guest from out of town…this is the one!

Why Does Pakistani Food Lack Visibility?

Despite the incredible flavors and respectable size of the Pakistani diaspora (estimated at about nine million across the world), Pakistani cuisine continues to lack visibility. This is a disservice to both Pakistani and Indian cuisines since it stems from the false assumption that Pakistani food only exists in relation to its Indian counterpart.

How the World Eats

The term “food system” evokes associations of a massive global machine, controlled by pulleys and levers. But the idea of “the food world” invites us to think of an organic ecosystem, in which every part is connected to every other.

Question Mark, Round Four

Bouncy meatloaf, how to use fresh bay leaves, and ketchup with tofu.

Savory S’mores are Very Much Needed Right Now

The basic concept: Place two thin toasted baguette slices on a plate, add toppings of choice, and set aside. Next, grab a chunk of sausage or frying cheese, skewer it up, and cook over the open flame of the firepit, turning slowly, until hot and golden brown.

Alton Brown: Meals That Made Me, Part I

In an excerpt from his new book, Food for Thought, Alton Brown—this week’s guest on Food with Mark Bittman—finds closure in a “harrowing” culinary experience.

Savory S’mores

This recipe—or “recipe concept,” given the infinite potential variations—falls squarely into the category of “strange by-products of the pandemic.” At some point in 2022, after months of firepit entertaining and one too many servings of graham crackers, Hershey’s, and marshmallows, I began to ponder whether it might be possible to “adultify” the s’more. Some experimentation followed, and fast-forward to one day last fall, when we invited some friends over and unveiled our subversive “s’morgasbord.” The chorus of oohs and aahs that resulted proved this was an idea whose time had come. – Vanessa Seder

Gramercy Tavern’s Chocolate Crème Brûlée

​Karen Demasco​, the Executive Pastry Chef at New York’s ​Gramercy Tavern​, uses coconut milk to make this beautifully creamy—vegan—crème brûlée. She says the dessert can also be served as a pudding—just skip the caramelizing step.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Bread

This bread gets all its stability from canned pureed pumpkin, not eggs (making it vegan, just FYI). It’s the perfect thing to have on the counter for a quick breakfast on the way to school or work, or as a snack when someone comes home from either of those things (or anything). If you don’t have pumpkin pie spice, just use 3/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and ginger plus 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg. Note that you will have a little pumpkin puree left over; you can freeze it for future loaves, or add it to just about any soup, stew, or braise. Or mix it into your dog’s food! – Julia Turshen

Tomato and Tofu

My love affair with the Chinese home-style dish tomato and egg began not as a voracious Chinese girl at my mother’s dining table, but in 2015, the year our family moved to the United States. Moving countries and leaving my home, my family, but particularly my mother, was the catalyst for a seismic shift in how I regarded my life and my heritage. I began to reach for the small details, the fleeting moments that tethered me, this feisty Chinese-Australian adult living in Brooklyn, to that small timid girl, “tiny number 3” as my dad called me, growing up in the quiet suburbs of southwest Sydney. And as I dug deep, sweeping away the cobwebs of time, I arrived back home, perched at my mother’s kitchen table, with a bowl of rice in one hand, chopsticks in the other, piling gee yook biang (Cantonese steamed “pork cake”), shiu dan (steamed water-egg custard) and tomato and egg into my bowl. There are many dishes that stir my culinary nostalgia, but there is something deeply comforting about tomato and egg, a taste of home for the Chinese kids all over the world. This is my latest take on this dish, with all the same flavors, but the egg has been replaced with silky soft tofu. It’s only a slight deviation from the original, but the tofu offers a delicate texture and creamy flavor. Same, but different. – Hetty Lui McKinnon

Question Mark, Round Three

How to get around an egg allergy, chickpea spaghetti, and more cooking for one.

Miso Caesar with Asparagus, Peas, and Prosciutto Crumble

A good Caesar salad is sort of a unicorn. For as often as they’re on a menu, I find them to be dependably disappointing if not inedible. The romaine is frequently tough or wilted, the croutons are likely out of a box or at least flavorless and stale, the cheese, if there at all, is often grated (a true misstep in my opinion), and the dressing is reliably dreadful. Certainly, there are the ones that delight, but in my experience, they are few and far between. This Caesar aims to make up for what so many of the sad ones lack: It stays true to tradition (good ingredients treated well) but also strays just enough to make it special. Miso added to the dressing gives it a bit of an umami boost, while asparagus and peas provide some textural contrast to the
baby romaine. All that and, instead of croutons, homemade bread crumbs with toasted prosciutto shards to give you a bit of salty crunch in every bite. (One of my regular salad tricks is to use bread crumbs in lieu of croutons, as they integrate more fully, so instead of a big bite of crispiness every now and then, you’re rewarded with constant crunch.) Finished with large shavings of fresh Parmesan, this is the kind of Caesar salad I dream of. – Suzanne Lenzer

Question Mark, Round Two

Meals in bed, bread baking and salt, and less-income cooking.

Marcella Hazan’s Grilled Shrimp Skewers

Shrimp are marinated in garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper, with the option to either broil in the oven or cook over charcoal.

Fast Tomato Sauce with Miso - The Bittman Project

Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce With Onions and Butter

Perhaps Marcella Hazan’s most famous (and easiest) recipe — a slow-cooked affair of canned tomatoes, a lot of butter (don’t withhold) and half an onion.

Marcella Hazan’s Fried Zucchini in Vinegar and Garlic

When the zucchini spears are brown all over, drizzle them with some vinegar — you will hear them crackle.

Marcela Hazan’s Mixed Baked Vegetable Platter

A warm, comforting dish of baked potatoes, peppers, tomatoes and onions — do not be concerned if some of the vegetables become slightly charred at the edges. It is quite all right and even desirable.

Question Mark, Round One

Bread problems, pollutants in bivalves, and good—but not expensive—knives.