Perfect companions to thread on the same skewer: The fat from the sausage bastes the chicken, ensuring meats are tender with crisp edges, while the lemon keeps the flavors lively. Be sure to cut the sausage pieces as directed so they’ll cook at the same pace as the chicken.

Of course, as always, if you don’t have a grill, spread the skewers onto a rimmed baking sheet and pop them under the broiler. All you need to round out the meal are steamed corn on the cob, cucumbers and red onion tossed with sour cream and hunks of torn bread.

Everywhere bread is traditional, people developed the means to use it stale— think of Italy’s crostini, or fattoush, the pita salads of the Middle East. Chilaquiles—scrambled tortilla strips—are Mexico’s contribution. Traditional versions often include eggs and/or salsa to soften and flavor the tortillas, with meat stirred in as almost an afterthought.

If you’re going to use chicken, consider thighs (which are less expensive and more flavorful). To make this vegetarian, skip the chicken and add a couple of eggs scrambled during the last few minutes of cooking; to make it vegan (and cheaper), add a handful of cooked or canned pinto beans instead.

One technical note: Charring and peeling poblanos is the classic method, but if you cut them up small or thin enough, you can skip this step.

This recipe lends itself to experimentation, so change it up. Be generous with spices. Toss in chopped bell pepper or carrots with the onions. Add a can of drained chickpeas or a generous handful of fresh spinach with the tomatoes. Instead of chicken, try shrimp, duck, turkey, firm fish, tofu, lump crab meat or beef.