Classic Spaghetti Carbonara
Who says you can’t honor tradition on a weeknight? After all, the sauce is only bacon, eggs, and Parmesan.
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This recipe transposes cannoli into a whole new body. Crackly and glassy yuba shells shatter at the teeth, rather than crumble away like wheat. Instead of descending into a cloying, cheesy filling, we’re met with a kiss of light and milky silken tofu ganache. The resulting smooth and sharp, creamy and crackling contrast is perfect.
George Stiffman, one of the authors of Broken Cuisine, shared this recipe when he joined us on Food with Mark Bittman. “The challenge and highlight of this recipe is the pastry shell. To prevent your cannoli from sticking to their tubes, use nonstick spray (not vegetable oil); don’t roll the yuba sheets too tightly; and remove them from their tubes as soon as they leave the oven. For maximum crispiness, baste generously with simple syrup, bake until almost reddish golden, and pipe in the filling just before enjoying. The more syrup, the longer the required baking time but the glassier the finish. If you will be making the shells ahead of time, store at room temperature for up to a couple of days or wrap in plastic and freeze. The chocolate ganache can be adapted as you like – just be sure to use a low-moisture silken tofu. The shelf-stable cartons work great.” — Broken Cuisine: Chinese tofu, Western cooking, and a hope to save our planet
A note: The only challenge with this recipe is finding the ultra-thin type of yuba. We’re only familiar with one brand that sells it (search “thin yuba”), and it’s only available at offline Chinese supermarkets. (If you use the standard yuba, the cannoli shells will taste too hard.)
This one-pot wonder has become a staple in our kitchens. Olives, capers, and fermented tofu nurture a zesty and piquant tomato base, which spongy tofu and chickpeas zealously soak up.
George Stiffman, one of the authors of Broken Cuisine, shared this recipe when he joined us on Food with Mark Bittman. “To achieve tender and juicy tofu, it needs to puff up and then deflate. Boil rapidly until the tofu triples in size, then reduce the heat and simmer. During this time, there should be enough liquid to cover. Alternatively, you can fry the tofu to puff up, then gently braise it in the sauce. You can prepare the sauce up to five days ahead of time and assemble before eating. If it thickens in the fridge, you may need to add another cup of stock or water before stewing.” — Broken Cuisine: Chinese tofu, Western cooking, and a hope to save our planet